In article , stuart noble I'd say the jigsaw is the main (possibly the only)
I'd certainly agree there. I've no regrets about buying a decent one. Of course, if you're not sure how much use it will get, a cheap one may make sense and then replace it with a good one as your skills improve.
Just how long have you been doing these 'countless' pipe jobs? Rotozip thingies are far more recent than jigsaws. My first one piece B&D jigsaw is about 25 years old, although not now used since I got a decent one.
They've always aimed at the average consumer. The sort who just buys something that will do the job, and wants reliability and value etc.
With things like high quality cameras, hi-fi, even cars, enthusiasts will always bicker among themselves about which is best.
It's not and never has been aimed at enthusiasts. Nor can anything ever be perfect. But I'd rather be guided by it than adverts or just pure price. Which is how some on here appear to buy or indeed recommend things.
I very rarely use a handsaw either now. There's a pruning saw I use for pruning (!) which is a hand-saw but for other sawing it's:- Circular saw for cutting sheet Chop saw for cutting things up (and I'll take the wood to the chop saw rather than do it by hand just for the guaranteed squareness) Chain saw for logs (and small trees)
That's not what you use it for, it's where you take it! :-)
I certainly make a great deal of use of my PP sliding compound saw. It's not bad at the price. I'd love a really good one, but they're seriously expensive.
And I do the same - often carry things to the workshop to use it. But it's a bit too big to take elsewhere - which is why I was querying the IMM comment about pros not using jigsaws. Of course you wouldn't where there was something better - like in a workshop. But different when out on a job.
I unsubscribed for that reason. They phoned me up a few times trying to tempt me to stay. I explained that for most of the stuff I was interested in I could find broader and deeper stuff in specialist magazines or on the Interweb - their response was that they have a website too :-\
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
Been toying with the idea of one of those. Problem is, I keep thinking , mmn , next size up would be useful......
However, I need to replace the cheapy manual mitre saw that I've been using for a few years, so I thought a smallish compound mitre saw is probably the best idea, as I can cart that about the place and then buy a bigger sliding saw if need be in the future.
Then a gain B&Q have a PPPro sliding 8 inch saw for GBP130....., but this is bigger and heavier.....
Indeed, the joiner who laid some flooring recently for me, used a jigsaw for cutting the planks.
I've got the 10" version, which has two slides (still available at my local branch last time I looked). Now it doesn't slide easily, but is rigid enough to simply use this feature as an easily moved preset rather than for opertion. And it will cope with 12" wide planks. The whole thing is rigid enough to give pretty accurate cuts. I'm happy with it at the price. A better blade helps a great deal as with all these cheap saws.
But I'd dearly love a decent radial arm saw. Three phase. Yummy.
I have a Delta one that I've had for a while which is compound mitre only (no slide) and reasonably light.
I've tended to use it for in-situ jobs like fence and other outside jobs or small pieces of work in a room.
For these kind of jobs it's worked well, but it is not really up to precise joinery work in terms of repeatability - although reasonable work can be achieved if care is taken on setups.
It's had a lot of use, and so I'd say that if you want something reasonable around £150, this type of machine or equivalents are good.
I had a play with one of these and found the sliders a bit on the stiff side and repeatability for fine work not too good.
However, if the width capacity is what is needed and precision less of an issue, then for jobs around the house, probably not bad.
For my workshop I wanted something more precise. Unfortunately there is a big gap and these start at about £400 plus. I looked at the Elektra Beckum which is good and also very quiet, the Makita LS1013 and the DeWalt DW708. The DeWalt has a 12" blade, but the Makita has a much smoother and precise action. I thought long and hard about the purchase in terms of use and precision and settled on the Makita. I've been very pleased with it and it gets a lot of use. However, as you intimated, it's very heavy at (IIRC) 38kg, so I wouldn't want to lug it around a site.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
I'd be interested to know how you scribe a sheet of MDF, some shelves, or a worktop to a wall without one. Although it's not my most frequently used power tool, it's certainly proved invaluable over the last couple of years, and I wouldn't be without it.
Good tool. But I'm on my fifth one !!!!! All replaced FOC but they simply don't last. Either the motor bearing fails or the guard actuator jams.
Problem is the Makita one I'd really like is about 4 times the price.
PP or PP Pro. There is a difference in quality.
So, IMM has never seen a kitchen fitter use a jigsaw to cut out worktops. Well, I've never seen one *not* use a jigsaw. You might use the circular saw for a Butler sink where the edge is visible but, for the usual insert, it takes bloody ages to set up 4 plunge cuts with a circ saw. And the corners they do by hand? With what exactly?
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