Chainsaw lessons

[williamwright]

As I mentioned my Bosch 1750W electric chainsaw died a while back. I asked a local chap, Eric, ? who has a tree surgeon business ? for advice, and I struck gold. I'd got it in my head that I needed a long blade and a powerful machine. He gently steered me into one of his storerooms, where he has approx 20 saws of various types. Once I'd used a big machine of the type I thought I wanted I realised immediately that it was too heavy and cumbersome for me. It would also be unnecessary. He took me to a chainsaw shop where he is a major customer and I ended up buying: A Stihl MS-180 saw with 14" blade

5 litre chain oil Plastic fuel can 5 litres petrol Chainsaw file kit Helmet 3 x 100mm two stroke oil 3 round chainsaw files Chainsaw gloves

Eric gave me some ballistic nylon PPE.

Now I'm having lessons from him in chainsaw use and maintenance. Having used chainsaws for 40 years I thought I had no more to learn. How wrong I was. I'm astonished. There's so much more to this than I knew. I now believe that no-one should use a chainsaw until they've been on a course.

Incidentally the new saw is such a pleasure to use. It absolutely flies through hardwood and needs very little physical effort on my part. A revelation after the electric one.

Bill

[williamwright]

Mainly refinements of technique to increase work flow, safety methods, care of the machine, maintenance. Much about PPE. Different types of chain for different jobs. All sorts of little hints and tips.

It's much better than trying to teach yourself. If you get a more experienced person to teach you, methodically, that IS 'going on a course'.

You never start it when you aren't on the ground. You start it and lock the blade until you want use it. In any case, using a chainsaw on a ladder is dodgy. Ladders are for access; they aren't for prolonged work.

Bill

[Andy Burns]

The first rule of 'chainsaw shop' is ...

Sounding like chainsaws are the new angle grinders

[T i m]

<snip>

<snip>

Now there is a surprise. Now maybe try applying that to others things you assumed you fully understood ... ?

'Ignorance is bliss'? (well, other than in the case of a chainsaw and when it takes your arm off).

<snip>

Cheers, T i m

[Tim+]

I?ve never had a lesson but I *did* buy all the appropriate PPE before using it (and always wear it) and spent a fair time watching YouTube videos learning what not to do.

A poor substitute for formal instruction probably but I think I know enough to keep me safe and to know my limits. Still, following your post I might well look into doing a course. My saw has already saved me so much money in firewood it?s not hard to justify the cost now.

A new chain on the electric one might have the same effect. ;-)

Tim

[John Rumm]

I did wonder a bit what you wanted a 20" bar for!

Yup nice saw. About 1.4 kW output, so plenty for a 12" to 14" bar.

For logging and general garden maintenance I have always found the 14" bar to be more that adequate without needing to resort to plunge cut techniques.

I usually get the Stihl 1 litre bottle with the measuring chamber on the top which makes it easy to make up a litre at a time at whatever ratio you require. (but then again I don't usually make up a gallon at a time

- and not all my tools need the same oil:petrol ratio)

Did you get a flat one for filing the rakers?

TBH, having got the electric sharpener, I have given up with files - the the difference in cut performance is so marked compared to what I had been able to achieve by hand in the past.

Yup I picked up quite a few from a retired builder friend, who was trained by a demolition expert.

He was good on technique and basic safe handling - but was from an age before PPE, so I had to learn that elsewhere. (although to be fair, the demo guys used to wear a second pair of jeans over the first to give a bit of lower leg protection!)

In reality, the electric one has much the same (possibly even slightly more) power, but is possibly less well balanced. The main improvement will be likely down to a really sharp[1] chain, and probably better bar oiling. (good oilers make them cut much better IME)

[1] Not only sharp, but with the rakers height filed low enough to allow the blade edge to actually get adequate bite into the wood. I once spent a frustrating time with what was a theoretically sharp chain, not making much progress, and getting very fine sawdust like chips. Only after filing the rakers (angle grinder!), was cut performance restored, and the feeling of "ah, just like a real one!"

[Andy Burns]

Yes, so far I've managed to avoid it, I have a snapped-off limb that could do with a few inches trimming off to tidy it up, and that I think will be safer from a ladder than waving the saw overhead ...

[charles]

I have a small electric chain saw on an extendable pole. Very useful for this sort of job.

[Chris Green]

The rules I work to are:-

Never use chainsaw above shoulder height

Never use chainsaw from a ladder

You need extra training and skills to do either of the above safely.

[Chris Bacon]

I bought one o' them they there Stihl Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Tool things, and having thought "Oh it'll be carp", changed my mind very fast. Get one. Very easy to use, very fast, great precision result each time.

Note: you need a different tool or at least files in the tool for different sized chains.

[Chris Bacon]

Note: This is the tool with two round files and one flat file in a holder:

You can get them lots cheaper.

[NY]

Is that a chainsaw for fish-filleting? ;-)

[Fredxx]

I was wondering how much of the efficiency is dictated by the chain alone and how sharp the teeth are.

[Andy Burns]

Project Farm seemed to like the 2-in-1, if you can't justify the motorised grinder type

[Peter Johnson]

Saw a chap take down a big conifer four/five years ago. He used four saws to do the job. A small one at the top, then working down until he used the big one to cut the trunk. Very impressive to watch.

[Chris Bacon]

Yes, it's very very good, and there's no farting around with setup and adjustments and electricity to be done. £25-£30 gets one it seems. Mine was £25 including postage :)

[williamwright]

As any educationalist will tell you, a teacher is better than a book.

No you don't. And it won't stop unless you want it to if you've learnt to control it properly. Otherwise you're like an L Plate driver, stalling at every junction.

It won't if you've learnt to control it properly. Otherwise you're like an L Plate driver, stalling at every junction.

Agreed, but it's still dodgy.

It's more complicated than that with most things. But avoid working from a latter where possible.

Bill

[williamwright]

That isn't a DIY job. Go to hospital.

Bill

[williamwright]

It had a new chain, there's a spare chain still in the box, and I know how to sharpen them. I know what a blunt chain feels like. It's quite different to an underpowered machine.

Bill

[williamwright]

There are different ways of sharpening and different types of chain.

Bill