Central heating boiler switching on

Nov 25, 2004 5 Replies

Can anyone help me identify the cause of a problem with my central heating system.



My water supply is a pressure based system so there is no water tank in the loft. I have an immersion heater in one of the bedrooms and attached to the pipes is a water pump. I have a Drayton timer control switch and an Ideal Classic FF230 boiler.



Earlier this week I noticed that the boiler began switching itself on when it is programmed to be off. It powers on and seems to ignite but then within 1 minute or so switches off again. It works perfectly during the times it is actually programmed to be on. Is there a fault with the boiler?



I have checked the Drayton timer control/programmer by replacing it with another one and the boiler still switches itself on so I'm guessing it cannot be a faulty programmer.



I have also noticed that the water pumps seems to be very hot constantly so I assume it must be on continuously and maybe this is related to the boiler switching itself on or perhaps the pump is going?



I have bled the radiators but there was no air in any of them.



Any suggestions on the possible faults would be appreciated.



On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 18:00:43 +0000, Chris strung together this:

Not a fault as such;

Where is the boiler? My guess would be the garage. If it is then this is just the frost protection, either internal or external to the boiler itself. The frost protection will override the timeclock settings and turn the boiler if it gets below ~5 degrees c.

Thanks for the suggestion.

The boiler is in the kitchen and the same problem happens during the day as well as the night. I don't think the temperature has got below

0 degrees yet in any case.

The Glow worm that I have cycles the pump every 24 hours just to keep it 'unstuck' could yours be doing this?

Peter

I was working in my garage during the day (garage door open sorting cars on drive) and I noticed the boiler, in the garage was on, even though I knew heating and hot water was off. This was due to the frost stat, set to

7degrees C in my case.

Without seeing it it's difficult to be sure but I'm guessing that it is keeping your cylinder hot i'e' just making up losses. What controls (time/temperature) do you have?

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