Not really up on this, i can plumb a central heating system in but I just phoned someone who is having CH installed by EAGA gov grant funding and what i can gather is 5 Rads,Combi boiler, and a wireless themostat is to be installed. I'm a bit mystified as to what he told me over the phone that they are positioning the thermostat in the hallway.
Can somebody enlighten me as to why the hallway of all places?
|Not really up on this, i can plumb a central heating system in but I = just |phoned someone who is having CH installed by EAGA gov grant funding and |what i can gather is 5 Rads,Combi boiler, and a wireless themostat is to= be |installed. |I'm a bit mystified as to what he told me over the phone that they are |positioning the thermostat in the hallway. | |Can somebody enlighten me as to why the hallway of all places?
Because heat from all the house convects there, so it is affected by all the rads which probably have TRVs fitted. So it senses approximately = the average temperature of the house. In my case the unTRVed radiator will = be in the hall, so if the hall gets too hot the boiler switches off.
It is traditional because when central heating was originally installed, people often still had additional heating in the lounge. You can't put the thermostat in the same room as an additional heater (i.e. gas/solid fire) as it will fool the system into making the rest of the house cold.
However, Luddite plumbers still put the stat in the hallway even though people haven't installed ugly gas fires since the 1970s.
The room that the stat in has the most comfortable and reliable heating, so you want it to be the most frequently used room. You need to balance it and choose the radiators such that it is the slowest room in the zone to heat up so that the other rooms' TRVs close off whilst the boiler is still firing.
As with all these matters there is a mixture of personal preferences, regulations, common practice and existing arrangements to be taken into account.
Very often living rooms do have an additional source of heat (various forms of display or real fires, say). Also the living room might be one that is subject to a substantial solar gain. [Imagine -5C outside and a totally cloudless sky with the sun nearly horizontal straight in through the large patio window?]
I totally agree with Christian about the need to make sure that the area governed by the thermostat is a bit slower than the rest of the house/zone to warm up.
A big advantage is that the heating control in the hall is right to hand whe you come in. (I think it's "Luddite" to still be using separate time and temperature controls! Ferreting around in utility cupboard or under kitchen units to switch the heating on.
Sometimes the wiring is already in place to the hallway.
My MIL, aged 90, has the thermostat in the living room and a display gas fire, the rest of the house gets cold when the fire is in use (which she likes to use).
|A big advantage is that the heating control in the hall is right to hand |whe you come in. (I think it's "Luddite" to still be using separate time |and temperature controls! Ferreting around in utility cupboard or under |kitchen units to switch the heating on.
It is always possible to turn the thermostat down to say 5 deg C so that = it acts as a frost stat rather than turning the heating off. =20
Another thing to consider, apart from additional heating appliances and solar gain, is other heating sources. Each warm body is reckoned to be 300W, then you've got all the lighting in a lounge, not to mention TVs etc. All these can conspire to make the lounge warmer and the rest of the house cold.
| Each warm body is reckoned to be 300W,=20 |then you've got all the lighting in a lounge, not to mention TVs etc. = All=20 |these can conspire to make the lounge warmer and the rest of the house = cold.
The figure for watching TV is about 100 watts. 300 watts is someone = doing vigorous exercise continuously. Now what vigorous exercise do *you* do in the lounge ;-)
It is also a room that can accept a certain noise level without comment. A utility room is even better. Mine's in the loft which would be an excellent place for it if it wasn't taking the place that my bed should be after the conversion...
Not unless you alter the wiring! If you *just* turn the stat down, the heating will *only* come on when the temperature falls below 5 degrees - which is unlikely to be acceptable!
|In an earlier contribution to this discussion, |Dave Fawthrop wrote: | |> On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 22:17:59 +0000, Ed Sirett |> wrote: |>
|>
|>> A big advantage is that the heating control in the hall is right to |>> hand whe you come in. (I think it's "Luddite" to still be using |>> separate time and temperature controls! Ferreting around in utility |>> cupboard or under kitchen units to switch the heating on. |>
|> It is always possible to turn the thermostat down to say 5 deg C so |> that it acts as a frost stat rather than turning the heating off. | |Not unless you alter the wiring! If you *just* turn the stat down, the=20 |heating will *only* come on when the temperature falls below 5 degrees -= =20 |which is unlikely to be acceptable!
In other words turning it down to 5 deg C is the same as turning it off most of the year.
"Dave Fawthrop" wrote The figure for watching TV is about 100 watts. 300 watts is someone doing vigorous exercise continuously. Now what vigorous exercise do *you* do in the lounge ;-)
Got the figure off some official website somewhere. A simple calculation should have told me that it is a bogus figure. :-(.
The fact remains, though, that a combination of warm bodies, appliances and lighting can easily conspire to make a lounge an unsuitable place for a thermostat My own data show this quite clearly. I've been monitoring hall and lounge temperatures. During the daytime, while I'm in my office upstairs and the lounge is unoccupied, the lounge temperature is maintained at around
20.7 C. The radiators (with TRV) come on from time to time, but are clearly not at full bore. During the evening, with 3 or 4 of us in there with the telly and lights on, the temperature creeps up to 21.6 (or higher, sometimes) with little or no heat output from the radiators. And before someone asks, no, the room is not hermetically sealed :-)
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