The length of the sloping part may also be of significance. I have had a
pair of ramps for years, but I cannot use them with my Volvo V70 because the
high end fouls the bumper skirt. If they were longer, with a gentler slope,
the car would be up a bit before the skirt got to the high bit of the ramp,
and it would clear ok.
Alright then - your grotty bit of wood *might* get you onto the ramp if it
doesn't move, but you also need it when you are coming down - when it is
much more likely to move. If it *does*, the bumper skirt parks itself firmly
on top of the ramp - probably damaging itself in the process. Even if there
isn't any damage, the ramp cannot be removed without jacking up the front of
the car - which rather defeats the object of having a ramp.
Apart from that, it's a good idea!
Don't use a grotty bit of wood. Two 6' lengths of scaffold plank should
suffice. Taper the ground ends so they lie flat. If too wide at the other
end, cut down to fit into the ramp frame. Screw a chunk of 2x2 under those
ends to hook them firmly to the ramp. Voila - shallow ramps.
In fact, if you have some suitably strong blocks, you can ditch the ramps
and just use planks. It's what my father used to use on a sloping drive.
(Admittedly, the front wheels won't be as firmly held.)
Not only that, but I find most standard ramps get pushed across the floor
if you try to climb them with the non driven wheels - a more gentle slope
would cure this but make them perhaps too large to store.
And cost more. ;-)
*According to my calculations, the problem doesn't exist.
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW 12
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