Thanks to you and Rod for these suggestions. It was a bad internal connection to the ammeter.
I was a bit reluctant to drill the rivets out in case I damaged an internal component in so doing, but then I thought - well if I don't open it up I'm going to throw it out anyway, so what the hell.
There is, but it turns back on every time you turn on the ignition, there may be an OBD-II setting to permanently disable it.
I'm fairly used to it now, it did initially annoy me with its inconsistency, such as stopping when you come to a halt, then restarting as soon as you take your foot off the brake ... I don't mind that so much now that I also know that taking my foot off the brake doesn't turn off the brake lights anyway, so I leave my foot on the brake for short stops.
Probably the casting was much thicker metal.
Bill
He's confused between amps and watts.
Bill
Charles is on about a different thing altogether.
Bill
Nevertheless the chargers in my motorhome have temp sensors strapped to the side of the batteries, which are ordinary deep discharge lead acid types.
Bill
My motorhome chargers are actually sold mainly for yachts. They each charge at 15A (at 24V) and check battery condition by voltage and also by temperature. They will fully charge 100Ah batteries in half a day. Eventually they drop to a maintenance charge of about 100mA.
Bill
It doesn't. Voltage regulation means the charge tapers off. This is why it takes a ridiculous length of time to fully charge a car battery.
Bill
are they still there?
I suppose an early car only had the one pulley so how much space it took up not a problem.
But I really can't remember seeing a cast pulley on any car - even more so if a performance part where weight is important.
Makes sense to keep it away from the heat of the engine? And helps with weight distribution?
It does make sense if you wish to re-charge the battery as quickly as possible. I've just fixed the charger on a camper van. Nothing that sophisticated there. ;-)
Why I asked here.
The little Lidl £13 charger with a peak output of about 4 amps actually charges a battery faster than my older Halfords one which claims 11 amps. I assume by keeping the charge rate at maximum until the battery is full.
On an old Mini, yes.
I suspect strength was the most important. It had a smaller diameter.
Mine is Jaguar XF.
No Bill. EMF or voltage is entirely down to rotational speed times flux density. Flux can be varied by adjusting field coil current so the alternator will deliver whatever volts it needs to do to push 150A out
My son's car has them. My wife says it makes her feel as if she's wet herself!
Andy
A lovely example of bullshit baffles brains, or 'obfuscation'. What you did was trot out a lot of fairly obvious but scarcely relevant guff to hide the fact that you were talking bollocks. Everyone can see through this sort of thing you know. Try to remember that amongst the members of this group there are people who have had a working lifetime of detecting bullshit.
Bill
The thing with yachts is that sometimes they are in the harbour for quite short periods, and so there's a rush to get the batteries charged. The yachtsmen don't like to run the engine unless they have to, and wind/solar don't hack it. So the chargers are designed to shove the absolute max into the battery without causing damage. My 15A chargers are regarded as 'small piddling things' by people with big yachts, where
30A at 24V per battery set is more usual. I have two 24V battery sets and two 15A chargers. (the aux 12V supply is charged by a 24/14V converter. The vehicle's 24V circuit is only charged by the alternator, but is isolated when the vehicle is stationary.)Bill
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