Camping Gaz

I prefer petrol or meths anyway but I'm a bit old fashioned.

The message from Mike Halmarack contains these words:

I have a nice selection of Primus andOptimus stoves and lamps - and Tilleys. But nice as they are - and I'll probably still carry one for backup, they're slow to light and the wife's not keen on the smell. They're wonderfully cheap to operate though.

Reminds me of the time I went to a campsite at Bught Park ,Inverness and screwed a Camping Gaz canister on to my lantern not realising that the rubber seal on the lamp had gone walkabout with the result that when the canister was punctured gas spewed everywhere .It seemed to take forever before it emptied and the stink was horrendous .Luckily I was well away from everyone else and there were no naked lights or smokers around .Scary or what .lol

Stuart

That's the clincher for me.

Many, but not all, devices work equally well on either Butane or Propane

- given the right regulator. Read the instructions. Caravanners use Calor in this country as it's much cheaper than Campingaz (I think they've changed it to one word now). However, Calor isn't available abroad so Campingaz is used - hopefully no heating is required in warmer climes. The other issue is getting a cylinder in the first place (thereafter you only pay for the gas). I got my cylinders from car boot sales for 3 or 4 quid each. Another good source is the local council tip.

Another Dave

Paraffin! Nothing beats a Primus!

What I like about the petrol fueled cooker is that there are filling stations everywhere.

"Bob Eager" typed

Petrol or Coleman fuel FAST!

|Cor - ain't it expensive? | |I've not used it before but my first trip to get a bottle has left me |rather startled. | |It appears to be cheaper to swap the regulator and use Calorgas bottles |instead - they're way cheaper and the cylinder charge isn't so |exhorbitant.

Even cheaper to use Flogas

Butane gives about 15% more cups of tea per bottle. Butane gives about 5% more cups of tea per GBP. Propane works in winter near freezing point. All UK Propane bottles have the same fitting. Autogas is cheap, you need a built in tank, tax *WILL* increase.

|Any thoughts - apart from the obvious "You're not qualified to play with |gas, your knees will turn yellow and your teeth go pop".

Be careful, swap bottle outside.

The message from "Bob Eager" contains these words:

I think you, like me, must be living in the past. AIUI buy a Primus these days you will get either a petrol stove or a multifuel stove and last time I enquired I found paraffin hard to find and more expensive than petrol.

I have 2 half pint Primuses but both now leak so when camping I usually use a Calor gas double burner that must be getting on for 50 years old. That has the advantage that in the depths of winter I can stick the bottle on one burner so I can cook on the other. :-)

Back on topic for a moment. Anyone any tips on how to avoid turning a Primus stove into a set of parts while achieving a paraffin tight repair?

The message from Dave Fawthrop contains these words:

Clearly!

The message from Roger contains these words:

What you want's a proper old hardware shop. I used to use Tyson's in Hounslow but when we moved to Telford it took me ages to find the hardware shop (name escapes me) in Broseley. Smashing place - would sell you half an ounce of rusty nail heads if you needed 'em.

Have a look at this thread I started last year (same issue):

I think we have the ideal solution now - we ended up with the bayonet fittings from BES which someone recommended in the above thread, and now have two butane regulators (one standard UK, one Camping Gaz), each of which has a length of hose attached to a gas bayonet fitting. The cooker has another short hose, with the corresponding bayonet fitting. Therefore, I can swap between standard UK and Camping Gaz at will, without needing to unscrew regulators, jubilee clips etc.

So we use a standard cylinder normally, and carry a Gaz one for a back-up if need be... when overseas, the Gaz cylinder is an absolute must-have, as others have said.

By the way - did you get a little screw-thread plug/carrying handle with your new cylinder? DON'T lose it, IME some places on the continent refuse to take back empty cylinders without it.

David

I'd look at Hylomar Blue, try a local motor factors or Ebay.

The authoritative answer would be found here:

cheers, Pete.

The message from Roger contains these words:

Lead washer?

What's the problem? If it's leaking from a demountable joint then it'll need a lead washer. If it's leaking from a fixed joint then it'll need soldering. Often soft solder is good enough if you're not too near the hot bits.

The message from Guy King contains these words:

That's not the problem.

Leaking from one of the solder joints. I have it in the back of my mind that the assembly was not all done at the same time and that some of the joints were done with higher melting point solder. Not knowing which is which I don't want to accidentally unsolder a good joint while effecting the repair.

The message from Pete C contains these words:

Thanks. No idea what that is but I will follow the link up.

Two sticks, dry moss, and a boy scout.

Owain

Out of interest, are there many campsites about that allow fires? Or even better, provide wood for a fire?