In our case, all of the windows were in before we moved in and any escape via an upstairs window would require smashing it. I'm not bothered about that though, as the best escape route is onto a flat roof, standing our conservatory off by about 900mmm from the back of the house (and then the much shorted drop or even climb down via the fence next to it) and I'd rather not have it as an easy entry point for burglars!
The Natural Philosopher wrote in news:jvipm2$dg3$ snipped-for-privacy@news.albasani.net:
I gather they also stipulate that this has to be measured at 90 degrees from the fixed part of the window and unobstructed. The problem is, that most PVC windows have travel-limiting hinges. Perhaps the special "fire escape hinges" overcome this. From a practucal POV, I suppose a side-hung opening section is going to be easier to escape through (when in a panic situation) than a top-hung one. However, I live in an area prone to strong winds, so I like the idea of top-hung windows, as they are (I guess) much less likely to get caught and damaged by a ghust of strong wind.
I was thinking of oting for having the full are aof the window openable (top hung). However, it occurs to me that this as a heavy openable section that would put a lot of strain on the hinges, so pehaps having only half the window openable would be wiser. Any comments, anyone?
I've noticed that on PVC windows, the hinges often fail long before the rest of the window gives problems. Can anyone offer any advice on how to recognise (before buying) hings systems that are likely to give premature problems?
Do they mean a thin fireman or a fat fireman? (I'm thinking Stan Laurel vs. Oliver Hardy...)
As I always say to someone who says, "if there was a fire I'd get through that" when referring to a 300mm wide opening; "yes, but could someone wearing breathing apparatus get in?"
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