Buring pipes & Power to a whirlpool bath

It's full speed ahead with the bathroom refit here!

Took the old tiles of the wall, and huge sheets of the plaster behind decided it didn't want to part company with the tiles!

...cue a few hours with an air chisel...I have now taken almost all the old plaster off the (9" brick) walls, just about 5% left to remove...

Now, I was intending on chasing out the (solid) floor to run the water pipes between the various things in the bathroom, with the space under the bath as the main distribution point but am thinking the walls may be easier.

The plaster that came off was really thick, I reckon 22mm pipe would have been lost in there!

How thick does modern plaster go on?

We intend to tile the walls ultimately, so would we only need to plaster the walls with bonding plaster, and forget about the finishing plaster?

We have a whirlpool bath to go in, we also have one in the en suite, when this was put in many many years ago, the builders (It was an extension, not just a bathroom fitment) put a small consumer unit with a 30mA RCD in the vanity unit to supply the power to the bath - the house already has 30mA RCD's so this bath has two.

I assume this is not necessary, or recommended, as cascading RCD's is not good - I plan to take a spur off the ringmain for the bath, but where do I put the FCU? I am going to install a fan isolator on the wall above the door, outside the bathroom, should I put it here so it is near and accessible, but also outside the bathroom? Sounds like the logical place to me..

Due to the price of copper pipes being stupid, I plan to do almost everything in plastic. The only exception may be the feed to the towel radiator, as these pipes will be partially visible (the pipes will pop through the wall from the other side then bend 90 degrees so I can install the TRV with it's head along the wall, rather than sticking out from it (The door may hit it if it sticks out)

Alternatively, can I install this with the head pointing down, so the feeding pipes go in where the current radiator connector is in the picture?

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if I do use plastic everywhere, I assume I don't need to do any earth bonding anywhere? how about if the radiator is connected with copper pipes, but on the other side of the wall, it connects to plastic pipes (That then connect to copper a bit further along!?

ta :-)

Reply to
Sparks
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As thick as you want it to, but considering you are using plastic, why not dry line the walls with plasterboard, this will add insulation too and give a nice smooth face to tile directly onto - most tilers prefer working on p-board than plaster.

see above, 3 birds, one stone.

I'm not well up on electricals so I can't advise on this, someone will be along shortly :-p

You can still earthbond it to the copper piece, the water does the earthing as well as the pipe material

Reply to
Phil L

OK, provided a person working on the bath could be reasonably said to be in control of the switch. If the bath has a panel that requires a key or tool to remove, behind the panel would be good.

You need at least 1m of plastic if you don't want to bond the thing at the end. However, your bath has electrickery, so will need bonding.

Fine, as long as the plastic section is at least 1m long and there is no conceivable other earthing method to the radiator, such as an electric heating element.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

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