You're not building a garage.
And it's not mainly about the space,
I suspect that reality, in the form of a chat with Building Control, will rather kybosh this approach; introduce the party wall act & stipulate the only worthwhile route... Unless of course you successfully build it by stealth & keep it secret for a few years....
And because the Mexicans aren't paying for it, I'm looking for something adequate (and which meets any regs) but not over-engineered.
It'll be an outside wall, no windows, and from the outside in:
One thickness of bricks Some form of insulation Studwork/plasterboard Kitchen cabinets
I'm hoping that a hybrid approach will reduce:
the depth of foundations the overall wall thickness
...compared to a conventional cavity brick wall plus plaster.
I'm even happy if it turns out to be more insulated.
It'll have a fairly lightweight flat [yes, I know] roof.
Do you mean one brick (ie the metrified version of 9")? Or half a brick (do.) 41/2"?
Are you interested in meeting building regulation standards?
If you mean a half brick, I should recommend a maximum height of about
900mm without buttresses.
Tick.
4" celotex, gouged out for wires and pipes and made good with expanding foam, foil tapeed to the studs for vapour barrier.use 4" stud and then plate with strawboard wood - the really cheap structural chipboard. Then shove thin pb on top. That will make hanging the....
....much easier.
Dont forget and extractor fan
Building control dicattes that
First of all the easy way to build this is inside out. Put up the stufdwork cover the ouside with semi permeable, whack in nails and use those to key the external cladding brickwork to it
Building control will dictate the foundations.
use a strawboard roof, and get a pro in to pop the roof ing on - there is an expensive hot sealed rubber memberane thing that is te dogs bollox.
You will be les thanb a double cavity in 3width, but not a lot. It will be a lot cheaper however, and very easy to mount off the strawboard.
Nah. You make the studwork structural and use the bricks as cladding. Its standard practice.
Studs with a stressed skin (strawboard) outer is usual, then a membrane tacked on, then some kind of support nailed on to key the blockwork too. Or you can clad with fake timber cladding that never needs painting.
PS I just realised that what I mean by strawboard is strictly sterling board.
Strawboards is really made of straw!
Interesting. I didn't realise you could tie the bricks to the stud wall with insulation in between.
Building Control at the Council. Brian
Strammit board is a brand name for one version of strawboard. I used for my garage roof c1970
I mean like half of a cavity wall.
"which meets any regs" which was shorthand for "which meets any appropriate regs" which is shorthand again for "meets all appropriate regs".
From a structural point of view, single-brick garages don't seen to fall down very often. But some modest buttresses would be OK as long as they don't prejudice the insulation value. Any vertical loading applied inside would be carried by the studwork, so we are mainly interested in the brick wall not topping over.
In message <qef7mg$l3f$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 07:05:04 on Thu, 20 Jun
2019, The Natural Philosopher snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid remarked:
But would they be less than a classic all-brick cavity wall?
Unfortunately there's no access to the outside, because it's up against a fence (that's the main reason it has no windows[1]). But I'm told the planning people still need it to be brick (conservation area, red line etc etc), in case the fence falls down and people can see it.
[1] In that wall, ventilation will be in other walls.
I think you need to talk to Building Control. They are presumably going to want to see standard footings and buttresses (for single skin). I wonder if they will accept buttresses "on the inside" to maximise your available space? How will you point it with no access from the outside?
Are you reckoning on doing foundations for the wall with the fence in place?
What's on the other side of the fence?
In message snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk>, at
16:34:36 >> In message <qef7mg$l3f$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 07:05:04 on Thu, 20 JunI will, but first I'm tying to get a feel for whether this approach has any merit before I start getting some costings.
That's how garages are built. And it's not mainly about the space, rather than the weight and therefore perhaps depth of foundations.
I'm not a prospective bricklayer, but I've been told it's done "overhand" from the inside, as the wall is constructed.
In message snipped-for-privacy@outlook.com, at
16:48:56 >> In message <qef7mg$l3f$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 07:05:04 on Thu, 20 JunYes.
Neighbour's garden.
For an existing building, you need to achieve a U value for a new wall of 0.28 or better, have a poke around with a calculator, e.g.
An 89mm timber-framed wall, with 50mm PIR insulation between studs (obviously you could go up to the full stud depth to improve it), external brick skin and 32.5mm PIR backed plasterboard inside can meet it, not any less thick than an insulated brick/block cavity wall though ...
If you are building so close to the boundary that you cannot access the wall externally from your property I wonder if the end result will satisfy the requirements of a conservation are as to appearance (which is not just a matter of the bricks).
That will all depend on the local ground conditions
That you can reduce significantly
Would you be permitted to use brick slips rather than full sized bricks?
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Just don't ask the price ... and don't nail or screw anything into that wall!
Just have lots of accommodation addresses and ask for samples :)
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Unheated flat roofs, like commercial garage prmises used this stuff because it has some insulative properties, so avoids the condensation problems in cold weather.
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