I am replacing a bathroom and the old bath does not go all the way to the
wall because the soil pipe runs parallel to it. Going to fit a shower so
was planning on building a stud wall in front of the soil pipe an putting
the bath up to that.
Having just stripped everything out I find that the soil pipe is further
out than I had anticipated. Existing bath is steel with feet at the
bottom so can overlap the pipe. New bath is acrylic with a frame so
cannot. Result is that with the wall in front of the pipe the bath is
going to be about 300mm from the existing wall making the already small
bathroom a foot smaller in one direction.
So I was wondering if it is possible to build a stud wall that goes down
to the top of the pipe but obviously does not reach the floor.
What I was thinking about was vertical piece of timber screwed to the
wall behind each upright. Then a horizontal piece coming out from that
with a bracket at 45 degrees below it. Screw the runner to each of these
brackets and build the wall on that.
Would this work or is there a better solution?
Are you just trying to lose the extra distance of the timber after the
If not, I can't picture what you want to achieve, as I end up with a
stud wall hanging in the air over the top of your bath.
What's the wall? Solid? (bolt studs on to wall) stud? (screw studs
on if they aren't too modern and "value engineered"). Horsehair and
poo? (you're on your own)
What's going to hang on it - thin paint, thin tile, heavier porcelain,
Yes. The room is only about 7 feet from the door wall to the wall
opposite and the length of the bath across. If I build the stud wall in
front of the pipe I will loose one foot of that 7 feet so I was wondering
if there was a way of building it only down as far as the pipe. Some of
the pipe can go under the bath so I should be able to gain more than the
thickness of the new wall.
Existing wall is solid. It is the partition wall between two houses. Next
doors bathroom is on the other side.
New wall will be covered with Aquapanel and then tiled with 400mm x 250mm
Sure, you can do that. A stud wall frame is only a wooden grid, as
long as you stop that grid bending about somehow its all good. You do
want it very rigid for tiling.
However, as the room's small, would it not look better to make a shelf
there instead, and keep the full 7 feet?
There is a shelf there at the moment but the intention is to put a shower
over the bath and the concern is that a shelf is just going to get wet
and be unusable. A wall means that we can tile right around the shower
and have an alcove the other end for shampoo bottles and the like.
Stronger and simpler would be to span the pipe lengthways with a good
sized timber, fixing the wall end into a joist hanger and some other
appropriate means at the other, then build the partition on that. By all
means tie the partition back into the wall to add rigidity but those
ties wont now be carrying any vertical forces.
Screwing the aquapanel on with plenty of screws will effectively make
the partition into a compound beam, adding rigidity and reducing sag.
Support the middle of the partition whilst fixing the panels
I've assumed that the length of the room isn't much over ten feet.
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks
Having ripped the old bath out this morning this now seems more
complicated than I originally thought. The two side walls which I thought
were stud partitions and which I could remove the plasterboard from, put
some noggins in to support things like the shower and then aquapanel on
top are in fact two sheets of plasterboard separated by an egg-box. So
probably no structural strength as such even though a previous plumber
has mounted a combi-boiler on the other side. By moving the bath out the
pipes for the shower will have to come from behind the boiler so a little
difficult. The wall is only 1700mm long so exact length of the bath.
Currently looking at a complete redesign, rotate the bath 90 degree to
put it along one of the longer walls. Build the false wall and use it to
hide all the water and waste pipe behind, bringing them out to connect
to the bath and sink. This all of course depends on finding a way of
connecting into the existing imperial waste pipes.
Do it my way and there wont be any weight on the eggbox at all ;-). I
have seen it used and it is surprisingly rigid, you could still fix
battens to it with cavity fixings and give the partition some in & out
rigidity by adding ties between the two.
Whatever works for you. Universal compression fittings solve the
connections to non standard wastes.
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks
Any way you can provide a firm 'pseudo floor' on which to build, is OK.
You may find a WBP box beam works as well as a braced truss, which is
what you seem to be suggesting.
I did something similar here, and I am in trouble, because I used a
baulk of wood that was not stable enough, and tiled over it - if you
like I solved the gap by making a shelf a little above bath height. This
is handy to keep the 150 different soap like products my wife insists
are absolutely essential for her mental and physical well being, but the
wood has moved and cracked the tiles. And shower water now gets
behind..another round tuit. And the more the water penetrates the more
the wood moves..
So I would recommend you carry the plasterboard or aquapanel which is
much more stable, behind the bath and maybe use WBP to form the base
structure on the basis that is also more stable than a random bit of 2x2
So how you might do this is as follows.
Make a box section of 4 strips of ply, but don't assemble it, a box
section that fits between the bath and the wall with enough space to
cover it in plasterboard between teh bath and the box.
Assemble the rear and lower sides first, and then screw that to the
wall, ..then fit the inner side to that possibly screwing upwards..this
is tricky. Or perhaps assemble as a U section first, and simply screw
where you can access..towards the top - before fitting the top section
Then build the stud wall off that and plasterboard it.
It is also extremely beneficial unless you want massive ugly flexible
silicone sealer to somehow tie the bath to that structure. Car body
filler may be your friend. Acrylic baths can have wood glued to them to
stop them flexing , and to also tie in to the structure,.Oh I have just
re read your post Its a new bath!
In that case I strongly suggest you make that box with a lip going
upwards, and car body filler it to the bath edge, BEFORE installing the
bath, then screw the ruddy lot to the wall!
If the bath has a lip, the easy way is to strip some timber to fit
inside that, underneath, and glue the bugger in. Then screw to that for
the box bottom, and build the sides up off that..then fit the modified
bath to the wall, and finish the boxing with a top. IF you want to do as
I did, and leave it at that with a tiled shelf, it should work anyway,
but learn from my cockup and slope the shelf towards the bath to drain
shower water off, and silicone all the joints BEFORE tiling.
Or as per your original thought stud to the ceiling and plasterboard
over, and tile over that.
I hope that is helpful.
Why not construct a box round the soil pipe, using 1/2" plywood and
internal battens, and build the wall on top of that? If you slide the
bath up to the box before building the wall, you'll see by how much you
can offset the wall from the edge of the box.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.