BSP thread compound

I know - it's been done before - but there are seeming a constant stream of new products. So what would people reccomend for parallel BSP joints (brass) that I never want to get apart again - and indeed should not be easily movable after setting?

This leaves out PTFE tape/string as there's no joint lock (some of the fittings will be garden bibtaps - I hate it when you tug the hose and it starts unscrewing the tap!)

The compound should be potable water compatiable and ideally (natural) gas certified, though I don't have any immediate call...

So far the options seem to be:

LOCTITE 572 LOCTITE 577 Threadseal XS Threadseal GP

and probably more :_)

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim Watts
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Solder

Reply to
Eric

On Thursday 16 May 2013 12:37 Eric wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Full points for lateral thinking that man. It might actually be a sensible technique for me[1]. But I would not fancy heating a bibtap upto soldering temps (heavy and full of seals).

I am still interested in opinions on the compounds though.

[1] I am not actually using a bibtap per se. I am planning on using inline stopcocks covered in insulation and covered by a bit of guttering with the end a foot away and terminating in some brass fittings to present a 3/4" male BSP thread for the hose (and another for a micro watering controller). My reckoning is that the bits full of water will be well protected from freezing (and yes, there will be isolation isnide the house too, along with teh double check valve).
Reply to
Tim Watts

if these are to be truly permanent you are spoiled for choice really. Any gap filling adhesive that attaches to metal will do.

Try car body filler. If the joint is dry it works. I've even patched leaking plumbing with glass cloth and filler. The key (literally) is a totally dry surface. Make your joints with filler, then wrap the whole thing with body filler and glass cloth. Halfords is your friend.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

On Thursday 16 May 2013 12:56 The Natural Philosopher wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Whilst I don't doubt that these work, WRAS and GASSAFE certified is a requirement :)

Reply to
Tim Watts

If you want it to be permanent, Araldite will do the job and is used in some medical devices. The WRAS approved equivalent appears to be Bondstrand® RP-60B

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Colin Bignell

Reply to
Nightjar

Or Loxeal 83-21, see

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Not cheap, but does what it claims.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

On Thursday 16 May 2013 14:03 Muddymike wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Doesn;t mention WRAS (potable water) or GASSAFE though...

Reply to
Tim Watts

I know you said Parallel, but the best option would be Male and Female Tapered with PTFE tape.

Male Tapered with Female Parallel also works very well. And is recommended in BS 21

Male Parallel with Female Tapered may work. But consider it a bodge.

Baz

Reply to
Baz

On Thursday 16 May 2013 14:33 Baz wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Hi Baz,

I understand the theory - but does any standard domestic plumbing ever used tapered BSPT fittings? I have an oddball selection they all seem to be parallel.

Curious about that point...

The two most obvious cases of BSP in the house are (IME) gas cooker connectors and garden taps - do either use tapered threads?

Reply to
Tim Watts

Yey okay, All I looked for was "water" and "gas". It did a perfect job on three electric heating element "T" adaptors into wet towel rails for me. They are a real sod to seal whilst also lining up the "T" to the central heating plumbing.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

Fair Comments Tim. But I have worked in PetroChem for the last 44 years.

Most Domestic "Inlets" are Female Parallel. And Taper fittings are available. Rads Parallel. Valve Tails Tapered. Is the only common one I could think of.

Baz

Reply to
Baz

On Thursday 16 May 2013 16:48 Baz wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Where you would do things "properly" :)

Thought so. And males are usually parallel (am I right)?

Ah yes - vague memories...

That Loctite 55 "string" looks interesting. Not for my application - but in general.

Reply to
Tim Watts

I thought the idea behind parallel threads was that they had a shoulder or something similar to screw against. A washer/O-ring being used to achieve a seal.

They shouldn't unscrew easily once done up.

If they do then you could put a pin in to lock them.

Reply to
dennis

On Thursday 16 May 2013 19:45 dennis@home wrote in uk.d-i-y:

That's the theory - but I'm talking about British Plumbing - which for some reason seems to bodge BSP connections.

Wot I know:

Tap connectors - parallel and a washer

Bibtaps - seem to be parallel, no shoulder and traditionally done with hemp+bosswhite.

Gas cooker connector - parallel??

Radiators - some tapers

Reply to
Tim Watts

Won't the top unscrew, leaving just the metal body?

572 looks like the stuff I've used and been happy with.

SteveW

Reply to
SteveW

You'll probably have come across specs calling for BSP parallel with greased leather washers then! :) That was still in one spec I received about 18 years ago.

SteveW

Reply to
SteveW

On Thursday 16 May 2013 22:38 SteveW wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Thanks :) I'll look at that one.

Reply to
Tim Watts

Depends what you mean by standard domestic plumbing, I guess - my observati on suggests that all the standard fittings (elbows, tees, reducers, coupler s) work on female parallel and male tapered, and that the male threads on t he end of steel barrel were also cut as tapered (except for the special cas e of a longscrew fitting). At one time these would have been quite standard domestic plumbing - all the original plumbing in my parents' bungalow (apa rt from a little lead pipe) was done that way. These days most of the plumb ing would be in copper, and so there are fewer BSP fittings, but when I nee ded a 15mm copper to BSP adaptor the thread was tapered

Taps appear to use parallel threads and have a shoulder - presumably to avo id installing everything and finding when you tighten enough to give a seal that the outlet is facing the wrong way...

Reply to
docholliday93

I think all radiator fittings (values, TRVs, etc) are taper male. If I'm plumbing some other fitting into a radiator, I always buy taper mail.

The exception seems to be the blank plugs and bleed plugs supplied with the radiators, which are parallel threads which seal by O-ring, for a period of about 10 years before they start leaking. I would much prefer they were supplied as taper fittings, sealed on the thread.

It's a long time since I did a gas bayonet connector, but I think it was a taper thread.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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