Bricklaying tools - any good?

Having established (to my satisfaction at least) that reinstating a

10'x10' outbuilding will be permitted development, I've turned my attention to how to go about building it.

Googling turned up a recommendation in this group for "Basic Brickwork Techniques and Projects (Mini Workbook Series)". Now out of print, amazon.co.uk had it available for a range of prices from UKP20 to UKP460 (!!!) but I eventually found it on amazon.de for under a tenner inc p&p.

While searching, I came across various mentions of bricklaying tools. There seem to be three commonly available systems on the market.

  1. Bricky
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    This is the one that was sold on QVC. Basically a jig that you lay on top of a course and fill with mortar, then remove.

  1. Wallmaster
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    jig, but this one holds the brick while you butter two faces.

  2. Catnic Brikmat
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    A guide/spacer system that you build into the wall.

So, does anybody have any experience of (ideally more than one of) these tools and opinions they'd care to share?

Reply to
Rob Hamadi
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I'd go for the first one *BrickyTool* however thats a pro bricklayer using that tool in the video. ;-)

The first course of bricks is the most important start of bricklaying,once the straight line has been accomplished the rest just follow using that tool will help considerably for straightness. To get the first run of bricks I would use a long lenght of timber to follow a straight line with,let the first run of bricks set then away ya go. :-)

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

I suggest you find a local college which does building trades, and get yourself booked on a basic bricklaying course of 2-3 days duration. There you will learn to do it properly, and you won't need to buy any fancy DIY tools.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

I am not a brickie!

To make up for lack of training and actual skill various short cuts have been used.

I made up a *mortar layer tool* because I found accurately laying plastic damp course straight, very difficult. It does a strip 3 bricks long and 5mm deep. Progress is by rolling out the dpc. topping with a thin layer of mortar and laying the next three bricks.

My Readers Digest DIY manual suggested building up a few brick courses at the corners, very accurately using level and brick gauge and then filling in using a line and pins. For an amateur, this lead to some unsightly work so I started using the brick gauge to give the vertical line as well as the spacing. Over the years, I acquired some suspended ceiling *T* bar which is strong but lightweight. The *gauge* is a strip of wood screwed into the corner of the T with saw slots to hold the line and give the brick spacing. The T edge gives the straight line. Once the first few courses are set, I secure the T bars to the corners and gallop on.

I use the next size down from the standard brick trowel. Less muck gets dropped and you can clean up inside the cavity more easily.

Buttering brick ends is just something to learn. I used some lime mortar for the first time, yesterday, and was amazed how much easier it is to use.

Planning is probably the secret to good work. I can't explain this but you will know when you have made a mistake that more initial thought might have avoided the problem. An example might be that when you are working at ground level, it is easy to work either right or left handed. When you have got to the first lift you can only easily work one way. Maintaining vertical joints is difficult if you change direction. etc....

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

The message from "Rob Hamadi" contains these words:

I've got one and it's brilliant.

Reply to
Guy King

I looked into that, but couldn't find one close enough. Perhaps after we move.

Reply to
Rob Hamadi

Ta, and ta also to Tim and Guy for the advice / opinions. I'll get one delivered when I'm ready to start.

I'm still intrigued by Catnic Brikmat

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however. The site suggests that you can lay more courses in one go than usual, presumably because the plastic spacers take the weight of the bricks and prevent compression due to the weight.

Anybody here ever used it?

Reply to
Rob Hamadi

================== Be cheeky - go and watch a couple of brickies working. Much better than the fancy tools you're contemplating buying.

Cic.

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Reply to
Cicero

The message from "Cicero" contains these words:

I've watched brickies working - and I'm still glad I got a brickietool.

Reply to
Guy King

In message , Rob Hamadi writes

No.

The usual limit on courses (brick) is 5. In practice there are other limitations.

Cement based masonry mix may be workable for 2 or so hours in warm weather. A full load in my mixer does about 150 bricks with conventional frog up laying. Obviously you get more if the bricks chosen do not have a frog or you lay them frog down.

Within that 2 hours you have to clean out the mixer, empty and clean out the barrow, clean the shovel, move the line, cut necessary bricks, move more bricks to hand and drink a cup of tea. ISTR you are proposing a

10'x10' structure. If this is single brick you are close to the length where a pier is mandatory (experts discuss:-) which takes time: cutting bricks and checking verticals.

At around 12 bricks per side you might get 3.5 courses.

As a beginner, you are going to be even slower than I am and might do better with a smaller mix.

I don't recall a *frog up/frog down* discussion here but I am a recent recruit. IMO the critical part is getting the correct mix. I am still trying!

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

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