BLOWING FUSES !!!!!!!

please can someone help

my husband used the power spray on the car and the next thing we had water gushing down from the loft through the airing cupboard and down to the kitchen.

he stopped the water but now then we had no hot water. the control box was not working.

so we used the emersion heater to get hot water.

we have bought a new heating and hot water computer/control panel and put that on. it looks as though its working and all the display is up.

we still have NO heating and i'm freezing !!!!! we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf. as soon as we put one in, it blows? my husband, Bless him has tried everything

please please can someone HELP !!!!!!!!!!

Reply to
joruss
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Ok, probably utter coincidence.

(Immersion)

Perfect excuse for a fur coat :)

Ok, some details might be handy.

Do you have gas/oil/electric/solar/coal/wood/geothermal heating? DO NOT put a higher rated fuse in.

I assume it's a gas boiler, with a hot water storage tank, fed from a cold water tank? What model is the boiler? Could any water possibly have gotten to it? It's possible (though not especially likely) that the boiler has been damaged by the failing/wet programmer.

It's more likely that the new one has been wired up incorrectly, and there is some sort of short in the wiring. (this is unfortunatley if the case more likely to have damaged the boiler)

Reply to
Ian Stirling

why, header tank overflow, burst pipe?

gas CH? Somethnig else? In what way not working?

why? Onto which the gas CH or the immersion HW?

in where?

give us a clue first. At this point all I could guess is that probably water has got onto electrics somewhere, and youve fixed the water leak. Leave it a week to dry out before powering up and it should all work fine again. But with so little info I cant be sure by any means.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

its a gas boiler-pilot light still on not at home to give details of model. could not have been wired up wrong as no wiring touched, we got a new timer control 'thingy' and plugged the new front panel to the exiating control box still fixed to the wall. there is a black mark now above one of the pins in the back of this as yet another fuse blew. so thinking it could be a bad, new one we purchased yet another, but still the fuses keep blowing.

Reply to
joruss

Are you sure the wiring for the new timing programmer is same as that for the old one?

I think you need to get an electrician in asap.

Rob

Reply to
Rob Summers

Does the fuse blow with the programmer plugged in, but both heating and hot water switched off? Or when hot water only is selected? Or when both?

Some basic fault finding is needed to give a diagnosis.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water, we have a seperate hw emersion switch and that seems to be fine at least we can get hw. we have a control panel that controls , time settings for the hw and ch. this has a detachable front. we bought a new one,and just repalced the front panel,still the fuses kept blowing as soon as they are put in. we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud so we got another one, but still the same. on the back of the detachable front panel are small pins, and above the second one in fron the left there is a scortch mark obviously residue from the fuse blowing. i think its a gloworm system. the system has not been used for the last2 weeks, surely this should have dried it out. we have also bought a new thermostat, just in case it was that. but still the fuses keep blowing. the fuses blow as soon as they are put in. its instant.

Reply to
joruss

my husband has tried this every which way, one then the other and then with both off pilot light stays on and the fuses keep blowing as soon as they are put in.

Reply to
joruss

1) we have a control panel...we bought a new one 2) we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we got another one 3) we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case

These people have far too much money in my opinion!

Reply to
Richard Conway

no not money!!! just a freezing wife!! i do not do cold.... and these can be taken back to the shop and money reenbursed. ok

richard thanks for aALL your expertise of help in this matter

Reply to
joruss

If they blow with the system switched off so just the programmer is running, its wiring or connection is likely to be the trouble. If it 'flashed' over due to water it's possible this has left a conductive track. So best to change the back plate for the one that came with the new timer - and check the condition of the cables at the same time. Mark each cable as you remove them to make sure they are replaced in the same way.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems. You may need to replace it.

Reply to
Ian Stirling

I'm not going near it :)

Reply to
Richard Conway

I'm just concerned that you didn't sound alarmed about all the water and didn't mention having fixed that problem!

Reply to
Richard Conway

they looked the same, so we asumed the wiring would be ok. yeh.....i know don't ever asume..... the electrician has been contacted and we are waiting for a reply, saw you guys on the net and thought i would just ask, sorry i couldn't give more info thanks for the help. any idea where i could get a wiring diagramme? as that would be a great help also. cheers

Reply to
joruss

Sorry, I'm not fully awake this week. Just getting over the annoyance of posting my most secret password to IRC, so having to teach fingers new one.

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Know that feeling - don't know how many times I've sat in front of users and not tabbed to the password field properly and ended up typing an administrator password into the username field!

Reply to
Richard Conway

NEW INFO............ just spoken to mr, and he says he fitted the new back plate also. and it still did it Also, he can get the hot water firing up he stripped the valve and manually set it for the heating and it worked.. then when he put it all back for auto he popped the fuses again.

Reply to
joruss

3 amps? that's your problem you need to move up to bigger fuses and then when they run out use cut down heavy gauge nails Eventually you will get a very big bang and the source of the problem will be obvious :-)
Reply to
Matt

Is there a 3-port motorised valve in the airing cupboard? Did it get wet in the flood? If so, this could be the source of your problem. You need either to dry it out *very* thoroughly or replace the electrical bit. [With most valves, the actuator can be replaced without disturbing the plumbing].

Incidentally, what was the cause of the flood - and how did you stop it? Why do/did you think it was in some way connected with using a pressure washer?

Reply to
Set Square

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