Blacking of steel

Jun 19, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 9 Replies

I need to "black" a 600mm long 8mm mild steel rod. Paint isn't an option (because part slides in C.I. supports and bushes aren't feasible). Many years ago I had success with oil blackening of small parts but I'm dubious about being able to get the whole rod up to an adequate temperature before it takes the plunge (I can make a suitable bath using a bit of C.I. guttering that's in the useful bits pile). Has anyone got any words of advice, or a room temperature process to suggest?


In message snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net>, No mail snipped-for-privacy@aolbin.com writes

I have had success with both gun blue and Zebo, but am not sure either would stand up to sliding use.

Thanks, I hadn't heard of Zebo. The sliding is not very frequent - it's the pull rod on an old "Butler's Bell"** - so once per week, possibly.

** like this:
formatting link

Blackgates, the model engineering supplier, sell a kit called "MetalBlak" specifically for blacking steel. It is a room temperature process.

Page 134 in their catalogue

formatting link

Thanks! What a wonderful catalogue. I now see that Chronos also sell a cold process kit. From doing a bit more research it seems that heating and quenching in oil gives a more robust finish, but these room temp systems are definitely the way to go for this rod. I can easily make a suitable trough by cutting a piece of waste pipe in half and closing-off the ends.

You may be able to get away with oiling the steel and then heating it with a blowtorch, bit by bit. Maybe wipe extra oil on with a thick wadded rag.

Or look at tannic acid: tannic acid in IPA, wipe on, wait overnight. Deep black.

Some rust converters are tannic-acid-based.

Thomas Prufer

'Curust' will turn rust black. There are black wax treatments and paints for wood stoves etc that are amazingly resilient

An interesting idea. I have some Fertan, which I believe is based on Tannic acid, but the blurb says it needs over-painting.

Yes, the first reply suggested Zebo. I think I'll try Fertan, followed by Zebo. If that fails I'll buy one of the kits from Blackgates or Chronos.

Try it -- I have not overpainted it, but coated it with wax heated and rubbed on. Looks good, sufficiently stable for my use.

Thomas Prufer

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required