Best security for an up&over garage door?

What's the best security for one of these? Another "mother" project, hers is an old Garador one with the release lever in the middle of the door but she's lost the keys so it's permanently unlocked.
I looked at the "Garage Defender" ones but they appear to have mixed reviews. And fitting needs to be simple, basically she has a large, level one-piece block of concrete of which half is the driveway and the other half is what the garage is built on. I don't mind having a go at drilling the concrete for the fittings but chipping out rebates really isn't on my wishlist.
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On Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:26:02 PM UTC+1, Mentalguy2k8 wrote:

is

alf

Why not just replace the lock barrel? Presumably the central barrel lock wo rks multipoint locking, which is as much as you can expect from a standard garage door. Anything above normal security will only attract thieves. If y ou want ubersecure you need to give far more info.
NT
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On Sun, 12 May 2013 07:54:27 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@care2.com wrote:

Look pig ugly to me and sort of say "summat here to nick".

Multi-point? Cor that's posh ours just has bit if tin poking into a hole in equally thin bit of tin. No deadlock, all the key does is stop the handle turning...
Not knowing what a "garage defender" was I googled and came across Enfield Garage Door Bolts:
http://www.lockshop-warehouse.co.uk/acatalog/garage-door-bolts.html
--
Cheers
Dave.
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These are what I fitted - they seem pretty good
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENFIELD-GARAGE-DOOR-LOCKS-BOLTS-R-H-OR-L-H-HIGH-SECURITY-MK-II-/221169254493?pt=UK_HaG_Lock_Safes_GL&var=&hash=item337eb7005d
I don't think the standard lock is very secure - mine has a piece of wire that links to a bolt at the top - if you were to drill a tiny hole in the centre of the door you could push the wire and make it withdraw the top bolt.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENFIELD-GARAGE-DOOR-LOCKS-BOLTS-R-H-OR-L-H-HIGH-SECURITY-MK-II-/221169254493?pt=UK_HaG_Lock_Safes_GL&var=&hash=item337eb7005d

Same here, it's a kind of push-lever in the middle of the door, when you push the lever it pulls a wire which splits into a "V" and pulls down on a latch each side, pulling them out of holes on the top of the doorframe.
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Parents garage doors are of the type where the handle pulls a wire that pulls a spring loaded pin out of the hole in the top plate, piss easy to bypass, there's always a gap all around the door, and at the top you can even see the pin if you look in the right place, screwdriver just next to it and a little leverage the door will pop open,
he added his usual 'security bolts' to the doors, a piece of 2x2 screwed from the outside to the inside of the doors, and some sliding bolts into the frame.... anyone can see the screw heads, and as they'd usually have a screwdriver to pop the pin at the top, can easily undoo the bolts, mind, most garage doors are so flimsy they can be bent enough to pop any bolts out with little effort.
The garage door at my place had a multi point locking system, solid bar up and one to either side, or that's what should have been there, i guess someone lost the key and took the locking mech off, replacing it with a slide bolt into the concrete at the bottom, secured to the door with self tapping screws, and about 5mm into the concrete, the wind would sometimes rattle the door enough to pop the bolt free.
I priced up the replacement parts from henderson, got up off the floor, and went to buy an electric garage door opener instead, spotted on on ebay locally for half the price of the henderson locking bits, (new one would have only been £25 more than the locking bars, plates and handle jobbie)
With the electric opener fitted, the door can not be opened manually against the motor, i put a T handle locking lever on the door, but it does nothing, and unless someone sees the door opening electrically, they can't tell it's not a standard manual one, so would hopefully fanny about trying to bypass the manual lock and get nowhere,
of course an electric opener is no use if there is no electric in the OP's garage, so my post is useless... but what's new there.
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Does that mean if the electric opener fails, or the mains trips out, there's no way to open the garage door?
That's OK if there's another way in, like a door round the back, but if the only way in is through the up and over door, it sounds like a potential problem. Especially if the CU is in the garage like mine is!
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wrote:

Naaar, there's a cord you pull that releases the sliding carriage from the track, which is what the door is connected to and is pulled along by the chain or belt by the motor, then you can open the door as if it didnt have the electric opener fitted.
If there is a way into the garage via a side/rear door, you just leave the cord dangling for the day you need to use it, however if there is no other way in, then the kits come with an external release.
It's a barrel lock, so a hole is drilled in the door and the lock pushed through, then the nut put on the back and tightened up, connected to the back of the locks barrel is a steel cable, you snake it up the door, canopy arm if used etc, and connect the other end to the sliding carriage release lever, secure it neatly with electrical tape the instructions say,
To operate the release, you insert the key in the lock, turn it and pull, the barrel comes out with the cable attached, then you give the cable a sharp yank, which breaks the tape and allows you to pull on the cable to release the carriage from the track and open the door.
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No chance of getting a replacement key?
If not, then I'd do as others have suggested and get the lock replaced, so that at least it's back to the status quo. Even though from the discussion here that sounds pretty insecure against a determined burglar.
Are you up to a bit of electrics? For my manual up-and-over door I've improvised a micro-switch so that the garage is included in the house burglar alarm circuit.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4019461/Garage-Microswitch.jpg
Happy to provide further details.
--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

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