What's the best security for one of these? Another "mother" project, hers is
an old Garador one with the release lever in the middle of the door but
she's lost the keys so it's permanently unlocked.
I looked at the "Garage Defender" ones but they appear to have mixed
reviews. And fitting needs to be simple, basically she has a large, level
one-piece block of concrete of which half is the driveway and the other half
is what the garage is built on. I don't mind having a go at drilling the
concrete for the fittings but chipping out rebates really isn't on my
On Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:26:02 PM UTC+1, Mentalguy2k8 wrote:
Why not just replace the lock barrel? Presumably the central barrel lock wo
rks multipoint locking, which is as much as you can expect from a standard
garage door. Anything above normal security will only attract thieves. If y
ou want ubersecure you need to give far more info.
On Sun, 12 May 2013 07:54:27 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Look pig ugly to me and sort of say "summat here to nick".
Multi-point? Cor that's posh ours just has bit if tin poking into a hole
in equally thin bit of tin. No deadlock, all the key does is stop the
Not knowing what a "garage defender" was I googled and came across
Enfield Garage Door Bolts:
These are what I fitted - they seem pretty good
I don't think the standard lock is very secure - mine has a piece of wire that
links to a bolt at the top - if you were to drill a tiny hole in the centre of
the door you could push the wire and make it withdraw the top bolt.
Same here, it's a kind of push-lever in the middle of the door, when you
push the lever it pulls a wire which splits into a "V" and pulls down on a
latch each side, pulling them out of holes on the top of the doorframe.
Parents garage doors are of the type where the handle pulls a wire that
pulls a spring loaded pin out of the hole in the top plate, piss easy to
bypass, there's always a gap all around the door, and at the top you can
even see the pin if you look in the right place, screwdriver just next to it
and a little leverage the door will pop open,
he added his usual 'security bolts' to the doors, a piece of 2x2 screwed
from the outside to the inside of the doors, and some sliding bolts into the
frame.... anyone can see the screw heads, and as they'd usually have a
screwdriver to pop the pin at the top, can easily undoo the bolts, mind,
most garage doors are so flimsy they can be bent enough to pop any bolts out
with little effort.
The garage door at my place had a multi point locking system, solid bar up
and one to either side, or that's what should have been there, i guess
someone lost the key and took the locking mech off, replacing it with a
slide bolt into the concrete at the bottom, secured to the door with self
tapping screws, and about 5mm into the concrete, the wind would sometimes
rattle the door enough to pop the bolt free.
I priced up the replacement parts from henderson, got up off the floor, and
went to buy an electric garage door opener instead,
spotted on on ebay locally for half the price of the henderson locking bits,
(new one would have only been £25 more than the locking bars, plates and
With the electric opener fitted, the door can not be opened manually against
the motor, i put a T handle locking lever on the door, but it does nothing,
and unless someone sees the door opening electrically, they can't tell it's
not a standard manual one, so would hopefully fanny about trying to bypass
the manual lock and get nowhere,
of course an electric opener is no use if there is no electric in the OP's
garage, so my post is useless... but what's new there.
Does that mean if the electric opener fails, or the mains trips out,
there's no way to open the garage door?
That's OK if there's another way in, like a door round the back, but
if the only way in is through the up and over door, it sounds like a
potential problem. Especially if the CU is in the garage like mine is!
Naaar, there's a cord you pull that releases the sliding carriage from the
track, which is what the door is connected to and is pulled along by the
chain or belt by the motor, then you can open the door as if it didnt have
the electric opener fitted.
If there is a way into the garage via a side/rear door, you just leave the
cord dangling for the day you need to use it, however if there is no other
way in, then the kits come with an external release.
It's a barrel lock, so a hole is drilled in the door and the lock pushed
through, then the nut put on the back and tightened up, connected to the
back of the locks barrel is a steel cable, you snake it up the door, canopy
arm if used etc, and connect the other end to the sliding carriage release
lever, secure it neatly with electrical tape the instructions say,
To operate the release, you insert the key in the lock, turn it and pull,
the barrel comes out with the cable attached, then you give the cable a
sharp yank, which breaks the tape and allows you to pull on the cable to
release the carriage from the track and open the door.
No chance of getting a replacement key?
If not, then I'd do as others have suggested and get the lock replaced, so
that at least it's back to the status quo. Even though from the discussion
here that sounds pretty insecure against a determined burglar.
Are you up to a bit of electrics? For my manual up-and-over door I've
improvised a micro-switch so that the garage is included in the house
burglar alarm circuit.
Happy to provide further details.
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