Ball valves

Are there different types of the conventional ball valves?

The reason I ask, is that I recently replaced the ball valve for my parent's cold water tank. I put in a conventional ball valve.

Now, whenever the tank is filling, you can hear a loud noise at the kitchen tap and below the cold tank (where the cold water main obviously runs up the wall). It's as though you can hear the water noise, but amplified.

They never had this before.

I've swapped the little white nozzle inside the mechanism to make sure it's for high pressure (which is was anyway!) and this has made no difference.

Any ideas what I can do to fix this problem?

Dane

Reply to
Dane Koekoek
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they make two sorts of ball valve a 'full bore' type with a big hole, and a standard small hole type. if it is the ball valve making the noise then it is either partially open or undersize.

looking through a good big bore type, the hole is the same size as the pipe, so it is easy to recognise the big bore type, but any plumbers merchant will have them

Reply to
mrcheerful

Tony

Reply to
TMC

The OP means ball float valves. You're referring to isolating ball valves.

Reply to
Aidan

On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 07:28:56 +0000, mrcheerful

I think you're referring to ball-type isolation/servicing valves, the sort of thing you tuurn with a screwdriver (sometimes known as 'Ballofix'), whereas the OP was talking about float valves with a ball on the end of a lever which closes the valve when the cistern is full.

Reply to
John Stumbles

The stop-tap has been turned off and on many times over the years, and was set at just before full-on before I touched it, yet this noise has never been heard before, *ever*. Just by changing the ball valve suddenly you can hear it filling at the kitchen tap, whereas you never ever had any noise before. Apart from this noise, the new ball valve works fine.

Any ideas?

Dane

Reply to
Dane Koekoek

Of course !!! Amazing how I miss the obvious, must be because the problem I described had been encountered by me once.

Best bet to the op is to fit a nice quiet torbeck valve instead. Or turn down the supply a little till it goes quiet.

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

It is an example of what is called "water hammer". You probably never heard it before due to the flow rate though the old valve being much less than with the new one.

The only way to change it is either swap for another type of valve (Torbek, Siamp, and Fluidmaster are all good examples of float valves that fill quickly and quietly), or to fit an inline service valve[1] before it and to use that to reduce the flow rate to the valve. Hoever note that even reducing the flow rate is not guarenteed to fix it, and you may find you just get the noise from the restrictor valve instead.

[1] actually one task that one of those cheap ans nasty gate valves are quite handy for.
Reply to
John Rumm

The message from John Rumm contains these words:

I find Torbeks shut with a bit of a slam. Fine if your plumbing's well attached to the house, but if some lazy git's cut a few corners somewhere you'll know about it.

Reply to
Guy King

The Torbeck in our downstairs bog used to bang at times. It was cured by fitting a new washer. However (about 18 months later I think) it has started doing it again. I think it is due to the washer settling in to the closed shape, and thus getting to that state from open quicker, or else the hole in it getting bigger, or a combination of the two.

Reply to
<me9

Note that some of these valves come with a spiral "thingy" that you are supposed to stuff up the inlet pipe on them when using high pressure supplies. This helps reduce the noise and flow rate a bit.

Reply to
John Rumm

It's on a low pressure supply (via a long pipe - so there's a lot of water to stop).

Reply to
<me9

The message from contains these words:

A couple of right-angled bends just before the valve might help. Certainly hydraulic ram type pumps won't work if the supply's kinked near the pump.

Reply to
Guy King

How about a couple of pipe clips then?

Reply to
John Rumm

It's an elbow into the cistern (bottom entry) and an elbow and tee on the wall 3' to the left. The total run must be about 15 metres, mainly 15mm (first half of which is plastic).

Reply to
<me9

It's well supported on the last few metres (where the noise comes from). Thought! eureka??? Washing machine hoses beyond the bog?? Must try with them turned off.

Reply to
<me9

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