Soldering Quarter Turn Ball Valves

"JRR" wrote in news:684121fdab45a@uwe:

Why not just use a pressure-fit fitting. Simply cut off the pipe with a pipe cutter, put the pressure fitting together and tighten. Works great.

Yes, you can remove the valve stem. I do that all the time, and not only the packing, but the neoprene washer will be be protected from the heat. Unseat the valve about 1/2 way (like you're turning on the water), then unscrew the large hex cap until it's free of the body. The whole thing will then unscrew out of the body. When you put it back together, use just enough torque on the hex cap to stop the water from leaking. Overtightening will just make the packing wear out more quickly. Bill

Gohabs,

Thanks for the suggestion but I prefer the security of a good soldered connection on permanent supply piping.

Bill,

Thanks to you too. However, I think you are describing a globe valve (like for your outdoor hose connector). You don't lift a ball valve off it's seat. It pivots within the body. Yes, for a globe valve, removing the stem and the sealing washer is standard procedure. It seems a bit trickier to disassemble a ball valve.

This exact question was asked last week (and answered). Do a google search.

This is definitely a risk. Wrapping the center in soggy rags, and a quick solder with a hot torch, are your best shot, if you absolutely can't disassemble and reassemble the polymer components.

I wouldn't rely on technical advice from Home Depot aisle clerks.

I don't think you can do that, but have never tried.

HD sells a ball valve on which the ends come off to be soldered to the pipes. Then you assemble the whole thing like a big union. I put one on my main water pipe two years ago and it hasn't leaked yet! Not cheap, but worth it.

OK so if you can't disassemble it to get the ball out, how did they get the ball in there in the first place?

I can't even count how many Ball Valves I've Soldered. Now if you bought the ones the body comes apart with four bolts you might want to take them apart or better yet buy the solid ones. You can also buy threaded ones just solider an MIP on the end of a piece copper. Then use couplings to install in system.

Magic.....Or maybe they put in a small ball and fed it until it grew up.

Seriously, what you have to do is use a wet rag wrapped over most of the valve, exposing just the part you need to heat to soldering temperature.

Use a large flame so you can heat the joint quickly, and as soon as the solder looks like it's solidified, wrap another wet rag around the part you just soldered. That'll do it.

Jeff

Ditto what Jeff said. Wet rag and a hot flame. Angle the flame away from the valve. I used MAPP for the first time a few weeks ago. Made quick work of soldering valves and not one was damaged. Cheers, cc

Thanks all for the feedback. I had searched for this subject but maybe had entered too many terms. Searched again and found the other thread. Between that one and this I think I have determined what I did wrong.

So I'm off to buy another valve and a MAPP torch for a hotter flame. While I'm at it a backing cloth. Used some heavy duty aluminumf foil last time which worked OK. I think I can come up with the wet rag around here ;).

This time, I'll solder with the valve open and temporarily remove the handle to keep it out of the way.

Robert Allison posted for all of us...

We have to get together on this! Eigen no vector seems to be a blatant abuser.

Some people use a threaded ball-valve. They solder on a threaded adapter, then screw on the valve.