I have a 3/4 ball valve from American Valve. It states "solder ends". I
went to the American Valve website but could not find info. Does the
valve have to be disassembled before soldering? It appears to have
plastic in it.
The valve is M100S.
These valves are designed to solder while fully assembled, that's these
valves save time in installation
that said, you must work quickly & not over heat the assembly.
Have everything in place,
Apply heat to the pipe on one side & apply solder to the joint
repeat on the other side.
I usually wrap the valve body in the vicinity of the stem with narrow
strip of wet cloth only 'cause I'm the "belt & suspenders type". :)
I've had problems sweating larger valves, even with MAPP. I found
some 3/4" valves recently that have smaller flanges one sweats to
the pipe then nuts hold the flanges and valve together. I have to
add cutoffs to the master bathroom soon so I'll try them.
You often _can't_ take a ball valve unit apart without destroying
the housing/destroying the ball seal.
A MAPP torch (MAPP gas tank on an ordinary propane torch) is a good
If done at a reasonable pace, it'll be fine. Washer type valves
_should_ be taken apart. Not ball.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
I pulsed the tech folks at American Valves and here is their reply
In regards to your email here is the information necessary to
successfully solder in a sweat end valve.
We recommend that you just open the valve fully and be careful to apply
only as much heat as needed to melt the solder.
If you are using MAPP gas then you should exercise caution as it will
be hotter than propane.
It is a good idea to make sure the flame only contacts the ends of the
valve and not the center section.
Apply heat to the tubing first and transfer as much heat as possible to
the valve through the tubing to avoid overheating the valve.
Another helpful hint would be to wrap a cool damp cloth around the body
of the valve to further protect it.
Looks like the collective wisdom of the group is just as good as the
I just did a slew of them around my home (replaced the leaky old ones)
and did it with propane and a no wet cloth. Everything worked out
fine. I would have used MAPP if I saw this thread first. I looked to
disassemble them and quickly realized that I couldn't - so I just did
them whole. The hardest part for me was getting the plumbing drained
and *completely* dry.
When I later returned to the basement to replace the two I skipped
before, I broke down and bought valves with compression fittings.
These were by far the easiest to put on. I'm not sure what the
disadvantages are to compression vs. soldering, but I would use them
Hmmm... Hadn't considered that. I'll have to tighten them down one
more crank tonight.
I would also add to make sure you get the bleed hole on the correct
side. The valve should have an arrow on it indicating flow.
After you read all the comments, you may want to
just purchase a threaded ball valve. It will cost
you about$3-4 unless you believe "you get what you
pay for" and then it will cost you $8 or more.
You will still need connectors and couplings and
solder those if you are putting into a copper
system, but at least you won't be soldering
directly to the valve.
Thanks all! The install went nearly w/o a hitch. After soldering
everything in place, I turned on the water. The shutoff valve was off
but was trickling water into the water heater - ugh! Then the valve
itself began to leak. I tightened the bolt under the handle and the
external leak was gone. Not sure about the internal leak but it seems
like it's gone as well.
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