do any of you know how much (roughly) would it cost to change the roof
of an asbestos garage to a flat one? Is it worth doing this or would
it just be better to build a new garage from scracht?
It's a simple brick garage separated from the house.
You don't want a flat roof - really, you don't. If someone is
holding a gun to your head, sure you have to consider it, but
If the asbestos roof is leaking or damaged, then consider a box
profile steel roof. It'll cost less than a flat roof, and won't
The modern equivalent of corrugated iron. Think any big
warehouse - e.g. B&Q or whatever - the roof will almost always
be box profile.
It's thin (0.6-0.8mm) galvanised steel that's polyester coated.
Comes in many colours.
Well, I think in terms of functionality and building regs, yes
you can (with adequate insulation). But aesthetically - garages
and warehouses only IMO.
We're up in Norfolk so a bit of a drive :-) Love it down in the West. It's
the one region we would consider leaving Norfolk for, like the rest of the
country it seems considering house prices down your way.
What we did, which was a little long winded, was buy some of the long
roofing nails with the clip on caps, removed the nails and used the caps
with long screws screwed down through the ridges into the purlins. Why we
didn't use the washered self tappers as sold by Screwfix I don't know. There
was a reason but it's forgotten. I need to keep a journal :-)
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Is it a pitched roof or a flat (ish) (corrugated?) asbestos
cement one? I recently converted a garage roof from flattish
to pitched. Procedure: Remove steel edgings and corrugated
sheets (use a bolt cutter to snip the bolts or split the
nuts). Dispose of sheeting at tidy tip. Affix 4x2 timbers
to top of sides of garage (scarf joint in middle of each
side nailed is OK). Affix four 4x2 cross-members, one 2"
from each end, two equally spaced towards the middle. Cut
4x2 rafters and fix to cross-members and ridge board. Nail
on 2x2 battens lenghtwise. Cover roof with 1/2" Stirling
OSB. Buy corrugated iron, cut to length with angle grinder,
fic to roof (cut end at ridge) ensuring a corrugation
overhangs the edge of the Stirling board, and that enough
length protudes at bottom of sheet to shiels Stirling
board grom rain, & reach to gutters. Nail shiplap to ends.
Cut old steel edgings to weatherproof the bottom of each
shiplap end. Nail treated tiling batten under end overlaps
of corrugated iron, and nail over 100mm weatherboard pushed
up into trough of corrugated iron. Nail shiplap along sides
to seal. So:
4x2: 2 lengths of garage + 4x (width of garage + 8") + 8
2x2: 8x length of garage.
4x1: 1x length of garage.
Stirling board: Enough 8'x4' sheets
Corrugated iron: Enough sheets allowing for overlap (it may
be a good idea to select sheet length of say 5' and build
the roof to that dimension to save cutting).
Galvanised ridge pieces:4
Nails 4" bright, 2" galvanised clouts, spiral nails+washers+
caps for securing corrugated.
I don't know what prices are where you buy, but that will
give an indication. Guttering if you want it (on garden side
especially) to be added. Grunff says use square section
corrugated - I think this looks awful on a small building
like a garage. As an alternative to corrugated iron, you
could use Onduline (pitch polymer corrugated sheet) and
then you would probably be able to dispense with the
Stirling OSB which is to prevent condensation problems
with the corrugated iron.
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