Hi all,
I have recently bought a whirlpool bath on eBay and one of the plastic pipe fittings (part of the air jets) was broken. I am having difficulty sourcin g a new one and one of the spares suppliers recommended repairing it with a 2 part putty. Looking online everbuild does an epoxy putty aqua which spea king to their technical department say it should do the trick - although I can't source it locally.
Anyone have any experience with this or similar products?
Thanks
Lee.
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:23:32 PM UTC+1, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk wrot e:
pe fittings (part of the air jets) was broken. I am having difficulty sourc ing a new one and one of the spares suppliers recommended repairing it with a 2 part putty. Looking online everbuild does an epoxy putty aqua which sp eaking to their technical department say it should do the trick - although I can't source it locally.
Good stuff. I have repaired plastic watering cans and terracotta pots with it. It doesn't last for ever once opened.
Jonathan
If you have a local modelling shop, you might be able to get something like milliput.
pe fittings (part of the air jets) was broken. I am having difficulty sourc ing a new one and one of the spares suppliers recommended repairing it with a 2 part putty. Looking online everbuild does an epoxy putty aqua which sp eaking to their technical department say it should do the trick - although I can't source it locally.
Gorilla
Good stuff Milliput. It's one of those things you keep finding new uses for.
Nick
Epoxy putties are very effective (strong and sticky), make sure you mix thoroughly.
Milliput is perhaps easiest to shape into a "replacement part".
Car body filler is cheap for large items and adheres well to some plastics but not others. It's also easy to shape after it has set, but it's not as strong as the others, if it is a load-bearing part.
I don't think there is a single right answer, it depends on the geometry and materials. Epoxy putty is probably the strongest and stickiest.
pipe fittings (part of the air jets) was broken. I am having difficulty so urcing a new one and one of the spares suppliers recommended repairing it w ith a 2 part putty. Looking online everbuild does an epoxy putty aqua which speaking to their technical department say it should do the trick - althou gh I can't source it locally.
Thanks all for your suggestions. I will call their technical departments in the morning to see what they say.
Despite Everbuild sales saying there was nobody locally who could supply it I discovered that you can buy it from Toolstation
I bought it and had a quick go at fixing it. I mixed the 2 elements togeth er and then tried to put it on the edge of the broken fitting without seali ng the hole! It was almost like it wouldn't stick to it and hold on proper ly. I eventually got the surface covered and pushed on the other piece and held for about 5 mins. When I let go, the 2 pieces had not stuck together at all so ended up removing all the putty and cleaning the surface again.
Did I do something wrong or does this indicate that the product will not st ick it?
thanks
Lee.
I'm not 100% sure exactly what you are going with this stuff but it sounds like you are using it as a glue - that is to attach two surfaces together that used to be one but were fractured.
I'd have thought it works best when it's attached on the surface - kind of like a splint if you see what I mean.
Essentially, it is almost like a regular tee but with an extra side branch to connect a drain hose to it. The bit has broken off completely. Rather than a vertical break in parallel with the main body, it is at an angle so the result wont really need to bear any weight (if you see what I mean).
When you put the mixed epoxy putty onto the plastic, is it supposed to stic k to it and therefore stay on or does this only happen once cured?
thanks
Lee.
I think you're better not using the epoxy as a kind of contact adhesive; rather something to wrap around it and hold it all together, something like a plaster cast. If it has snapped, then it probably needs some kind of reinforcement anyway. If it's the right kind of plastic, you might try some kind of melting adhesive (like you might do with airfix kit parts), and afterwards make sure that it has not blocked the hole, but it would still probably need some extra strengthening.
If it is like a tee with an extra branch, you may be able to recreate its function with two tees, one after the other.
It might be helpful if you posted a picture via Dropbox or one of the other similar services.
In my experience epoxy will stick to most things, and the "plumbers" putty will stick to them even when wet. However, there are a few plastics which are difficult.
If the epoxy doesn't stick when it is soft, it's unlikely to do so when it sets (although you might be able to repair some things effectively by encapsulating them).
Virtually nothing will stick to PTFE, polyethylene, polypropylene, or silicone rubber, or many surfaces which have experienced silicone polish. If this unit has been made in a mould, the surface may be contaminated with mould release agents (often but not always silicones).
Some materials (perspex comes to mind) don't always take epoxy very well, but car body filler might work very well because the uncured material will tend to dissolve into the surface.
There are various formulations of epoxy putty, of which one is Milliput. They are basically made from something like epoxy glue, but with an inert filler to make them more putty-like, and to make them easier to shape when cured. With a high epoxy content, they will be stronger and stick better, but be more difficult to shape, and vice versa. Conversely, low epoxy mixes will be easier to shape, but be weaker and less sticky.
One product which seems to have a good reputation is JB Weld, which contains powdered metal and is supposed to be good for high strength repairs.
Yes. I had a pin-hole in a 22mm CH pipe above the suspended ceiling in the shop. No idea how or why it happened but I didn't want to drain down the whole system so I mixed up some 2 part epoxy putty stuff, stuck it over the pin-hole and bound it over/around with self amalgamating tape (brilliant stuff in it's own right).
That was at least 10, may be even 15 years ago and it's never leaked since.
How well would it work with the usual injection moulded plastics? I've generally found a solvent glue the best bet with those.
I've had some good experiences with superglue and a bit of bodging. Maybe Milliput to shape something and superglue for adhesion?
Is it PVC? If so pipe cement and some fibreglass tape for reinforcing may be applicable?
Yes, I experienced the horrors of a car vinyl interior which had been silicone polish coated. When I finally managed to stick something to the dash, I never ever managed to get the glue off the surface(15 years!) and every solvent I could find.
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