I have bought some acrylic sheet for replacing the glass in my greenhouse. On the sheet it suggests cutting it using a jigsaw, a cutting tool or scoring it and breaking it along the score (a bit like cutting ceramic tiles I suppose). Any tips or thoughts? Thanks Mike
Agree, but crack can wander from the score, like glass. You can cut it by hand with a hacksaw or almost any sort of wood saw, just keep the speed and pressure low to avoid melting. You may get away with a jigsaw with care if it has a very slow speed
I've found that scoring deeply helps. I've got some 30mm*5mm steel bar that is really handy.
Clamp onto sheet with some clamps, and then score several times (at least ten) altering the angle slightly to dig a fairly deep groove, before removing, placing on an edge, and using the bar to touch the whole edge before pressing down on it slowly works well.
You can friction cut it, by taking a smooth 2mm or so rod, clamping in a dremel, and simply running it along an edge. Not neatly, but it's a handy alternative occasionally.
On a slightly related subject - what's the recommended cutting method for transparent corrogated roof panels? These are some sort of plastic and scoring isn't really an option when cutting across the width.
PoP
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I'll probably still ignore you but at least I'll get the message..... :)
A stanley knife works. You may find that a "hook-shaped" blade works best, look in your local DIY store blade section.
Ironmonger? It's simply a 30mm*5mm*2m (or so) steel bar. Really handy for clamping to stuff and cutting using either stanley knives or powertools.
It's often misused as a generic term, it's the main product of the Dremel company,
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and is a small very high speed handheld drill, held like a fat pencil in the hand. (34000RPM is the top speed of most) Very handy for many tasks. There are others that make quality imitators, and lots of terrible low-powered copies.
Ignorance is curable. Stupidity is not asking questions, or pretending you know already.
Clamp a straight edge across the sheet. Deeply score with the pointed edge of an old chisel at least ten times. Repeat at the edges, starting on the sheet and going off the edge. Clamp the sheet to a bench/table with a 2"x1" along the score on top so that the score is on the edge of the bench. Use a piece of 2"x1" (at least) to push the overhang down not more than 6" from the score, until it snaps No problem, works every time.
Initially, I was thinking of a hot wire cutter - but if you have an illustration, give us a link - Google gives naff all on glodex - except a Miami Shipping Company - and I don't think *THAT'S* what you're looking for!
As an aside, I'm just embarking on the "Ooh - I think I'll build meself a greenhouse - lark". Why do you want to use acrylic instead of glass? Apart from the obvious breakage level, of course!
If you are talking about the type used in "asbestos roofed" garages and the like, I used a standard sized (not Junior) hacksaw blade, out of the hacksaw, with the "hand" end wrapped in a rag! Gently does it - as others here have noted!
Lat time I looked there were two versions of clear corrugated roof panels. One was cheap and nasty. It cracks, splinters etc if you as much as take the saw out of the toolbox, the other is a heavier duty version used in warehouses etc.
The first version is most likely the one you will see for sale retail. My advice is don't try to cut it at all. Attempt to get sheets the required length to allow you overlap the ends without too much waste.
I can confirm it does crack/splinter - hence my question.
Length is no problem, but there's a gutter downpipe which requires a cutout in the roof panel, and having already tried to cut a sheet (and ended up with a mess) I'm head-scratching as to how to cut this!
Maybe my instant soldering iron gun might do the job.....
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