Hello,
My cooker hood comes with a 13amp plug on the end of the connection lead . The installation instructions say this can be removed and the lead connected to a double poled switched FCU, with a 3 or 6 amp fuse.
So why is the plug 13amp and the FCU 3 or 6 amp?
What is the reason for this oddity???
John
What's the power rating of the cooker (on a rating plate)? Presumably no more than 700W?
The plugtop fuse is to protect the appliance flex, which can probably take 13A.
No! My fault the fuse is actually 5amp!
Silly me!
Really? The house we've just finished had the cooker hood wired from the light switch not too far away from it, and since there wasn't an obvious fuse anywhere in the circuit I put a FCU in when I changed the hood over for one that actually worked :)
cheers
witchy/binarydinosaurs
So you can maintain it with the lights on?
Christian.
What? Change bulbs and filters? I'd be surprised if there were any live parts exposed when doing this task. And anything more involved like a faulty motor would probably involve complete replacement of the hood anyway.
There are always live parts exposed when changing bulbs, our bulb fittings are an oddment of history, as yet undeterred by the concept of insulation against fingers. But we dont have isolation switches for all the light fittings.
Regards, NT
You've got switches on the walls though haven't you?
cheers
wBut they are just that - switches. They are not suitable for use as isolators which is what is required here for safe maintenance. Mainly because a switch only switches the live wire, and depending on the type of mains supply you have, you may need to isolate the neutral too (i.e. double pole switching). Switches are also unlikely to have the required contact clearance inside.
Most (not all) fcu's are double pole.
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