The voltages are, the connectors unfortunately have minor variations (You should get away with a difference between 20 and 24pin main connector, provided it will physically fit) but if you don't have the extra 4pin 12V connector, the proessor will likely not be powered.
Any joy with the everything removed as suggested? I'd even remove the memory in an attempt to provoke it into beeping which proves there's some hope ...
I did the memory before I posted. There are 4 sticks (2 I added last year). I removed them in pairs. No joy.
OK. So the battery is dead. It read less than 1V when removed. Replaced it with a new battery and no difference. However the new battery shoe 1.1V when in the computer!
Is that with the PSU powered up?
Something else which might be worth checking,ensure the cable is connected properly, both at the back of the computer and monitor.
Should POST even with no monitor.
No.
Maybe the 'new one' wasn't that new or was DOA. Try an other 'known good' one. Check battery-voltage _before_ insertion under load. i.e- with a resistor (value between 1 amd 10 Kiloohms) parallel to the battery. Voltage should not drop below 3V.
Other possible causes for the voltage-drop:
-CLR_CMOS-jumper in the wrong position
-Short-circuit on the board. Any signs of corrosion/leaked electrolyte at/near the battery-holder?
Not actually tried it, but I'm not convinced a dead battery would stop the BIOS running. It would stop it saving any changes, though.
Certain parameters are saved, and they can get scrambled if the battery is NBG. That can be enough to stop it booting (I've been told, but hasn't happened to me).
The OP needs to reset the BIOS - RTFM for how to - as well as putting in a new battery.
I've never quite understood the difference between a CR2016, a CR2032 (the most common ones), or a CR2025? They look almost identical, but possibly if you have the wrong one it will not make a good contact or short out.
Yes, I know, GIYF.
Here's a question we hear often: What is the difference between a CR2025 and a CR2032, or between a CR2016 and a CR2025, or between a CR2016 and a CR1620? Here's another one: How do I select the right coin cell for my application?
A battery with a part number consisting of BR or CR followed by four digits is a single Lithium cell in a small, disk-shaped package. Its terminals are the metallic surfaces on either side. It is called a coin cell because it somewhat resembles a coin in size and shape, although its engravings are completely devoid of artistic merit and its date marking may seem highly improbable. Also, it is rumored that coin cells tend to jam vending machines.
Actually, no one seems inclined to interpret the numbers as dates, which is just as well, because their correct interpretation is as follows: First two digits: Diameter in millimeters Last two digits: Thickness in tenths of a millimeter
Examples: a CR2032 is 20 mm in diameter and 3.2 mm thick, while a CR2016 is the same diameter (20 mm) but only half as thick (1.6 mm). A CR1620, on the other hand, is 16 mm in diameter and 2.0 mm thick. Note that these numbers should be considered nominal dimensions, as there may be very slight variations between brands in the same part number. However, in our experience, these differences are not discernible without the aid of a micrometer or a precision caliper. Every cell that we ship for a given part number will fit any standard socket or holder designed for a cell with that part number.
It should still start up even if the battery is missing let alone dead. Course it won't remember its settings but it should at least start..
In article , ARW writes
Check the reset button is not stuck in or the switch shorted. The wires from the front panel will go to a header on the motherboard, the 2 pin conn on that one should be marked Reset SW, just pull em off for a quick test.
The low voltage battery bit does sound a bit dodge though.
Thickness.
Diameter 20. Thickness 1.6, 3.2 or 2.5 mm.
Am 03.11.2013 14:43, schrieb tony sayer:
Yes. It should. But this Acer i was struggling with, didn't know that. New battery and all was fine.
Yes, and the capacity is different. See my reply-to-myself post. Will the thinner ones work in a holder meant for CR2032? I guess that's going to depend on the holder, and there may be intermittent contact.
Some machines work with a dead bios battery, some just play dead
NT
If a new CR2032 shows 1.1V, then there's a relatively large current being drawn. The open circuit voltage, which is slightly more than what you should be seeing, is 3.1 volts or so when fresh, dropping to 2.5 when flat. A load that will drop that to 1.1V will flatten the cell in minutes.
There's possibly a problem with tracks partially shorting on the motherboard due, more than likely, to liquid damage such as can be caused by a leaking electrolytic capacitor. Either that or the RTC/ CMOS RAM chip has a fault.
Good luck. If you're charging for your time, it's cheaper to just replace the motherboard, if it's just a hobby project, then there will be great satisfaction in finding and fixing the fault.
I've had computers fail to boot due to a defective CMOS RAM backup battery before now. Fujitsu Siemens Lifebook? tablet. It was a long time ago, and I couldn't get it to boot from a standard HD, after I replaced the battery either, it had a signature check in the BIOS for a genuine Fujitsu MBR.
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