Advice on allowing access when re-boxing tiled section

[jkn]

Hi all I am looking at re-boxing in a section of tiling behind our WC. The section is about 35cm x35cm; the previous tiling and plasterboard had to be removed due to a leak.

I still have the original tiles - adhesive removed, I'm shortly having a go at removing the edge grouting.

I would like to re-make this so future access is available without destroying things, as we had to do this time. Any suggestions about the best way to achieve this? I don't see many access panel etc. in tiled boxed-in sections these days.

Thanks J^n

[Brian Gaff]

Well that depends on whether you mind screws being visible I suppose. If its got to look seamless,and be completely water tight, so the probably wood it will be mad of won't rot, then I don't know. Boxed in areas seldom blend in in my experience. Brian

[Andy Burns]

plenty of kits for making them 'invisible' using magnets

[Theo]

I was thinking of doing something a bit similar with bar magnets, eg:

hit of many, not a recommendation)

with a thin steel plate on the other side. Route a spot in the wooden frame for the magnet and screw it in position. Then the steel goes on your access panel. Then you just use a sucker on the tiles and it pulls the panel right off. (this is a similar arrangement for how to open some iMacs)

The only trouble with this arrangement is some way to avoid having to regrout each time. (In my case the panel is painted not tiled so not a problem). Would some kind of strip eg silicone or a gasket around the edge be acceptable?

Theo

[Jim Stewart ...]

didn't work for me

[SteveW]

It is common not to try and hide the joint for an access panel and to use a thin metal or plastic edging on both edges.

[nothanks]

I've done this with a brushed s/s plate that goes over the surrounding tiles, held-on with s/s screws and sealed with a DIY silicone gasket.

I wanted to make an access hatch into a dry tiled area a few weeks ago in a downstairs loo. I made an Oak panel with rebated edges that attached to a timber frame with flat-topped mirror screws. The edges go over the surrounding tiles. It matches the (bought) loo seat and (DIY'ed) mirror and looks good.

[jkn]

Hi Andy I've only seen a very few listed, that was in part why my query.

So are you saying that the magnet approach is your recommended one?

Thanks, J^n

[Andy Burns]

I can't recommend any type because of having used them, just that I've put them on my list to use later ... I presume in searches you've seen the schluter rema ones?

[Colin Bignell]

When I fixed a bath front, I used concealed metal fixings that allowed me to slide the front into place. I can't recall what they were called, but were similar to these:

[jkn]

Hi Andy fair enough. I haven't seen the Schluter Rema system until now, thanks ... I see that 'Tile Access' System' might be the search term to use.

I should perhaps say that I was thinking of having a fairly large area removable, perhaps 35cm x 30cm or so, covering several tiles in my case. But I am expecting to have the removable area mounted on Aquapanel or similar, I think.

J^n

[alan_m]

That's what I've done in my airing cupboard to hide pipes and wiring*.

Definitely get large magnets with a screw hole that can be screwed to the frame. These Neodymium magnets have a thin metallic coating/skin that will just peel away if glued and you remove the panel. The glue bond will be stronger than the magnets coating.

I'm not sure of a suction cap for removal on a fairly large panel held in with these types of magnet. With my panel you need a considerable amount of initial pull to break the magnet bond.

*In my case its obvious that the panel can be removed, and no invisible joins. It's just something rough and ready (but neat) to prevent the contents of the airing cupboard being in contact with water pipes and electrical cables attached to a fairly grotty plastered wall.

[Andrew]

What about something like this?

Although it might be overkill if you are only going to need access in ten years time when something goes wrong.