Adhesive

[pinnerite]

A few weeks ago I sought advice on this NG about affixing plinths to the underside of IKEA sideboards. The general view was to use an adhesive, avoiding unsighhtly screwheads.

I decided to fix some 43 x 43 mm battens to the plinths first.

The adhesive that I thought sounded good was Mitre. It is a two part job and cures in about 10 seconds (they claim). In fact it is instantaneous, so there is no room for error.

The problem is the surface of the IKEA board doesn't provide good adhesion. I found that after the two sections were "glued", a sharp knock could detach them. I have rough-sanded the surface one of these IKEA boards and will have another go tomorrow morning.

Assuming that fails too, can you recomend the best adhesive for the job, preferrably one that allows the nozzle to be replaced to enable future use?

[soup]

Mmm what does IKEA do in this sort of situation ? Yup screws with little plastic disks to 'hide' the screwheads. If there was a reliable cheap adhesive that could be used that is what they would supply.

You could try keying the pieces of wood before gluing and maybe use a contact glue (Evostick. grabs instantly no real second chances) or a construction adhesive (No more nails. remains a tad flexible when dried).

Or you could try one of the longer to set epoxys and hold the material in place with brads.

[Animal]

impact adhesive is sharp knock proof

[nothanks]

As previously suggested, try polyurethane adhesive. Here's an example:

's always best to experiment first on a scrap piece, or somewhere that can't be seen. Be aware that it foams (slightly) to fill gaps so don't apply too much.

[Brian Gaff]

Yes indeed,Evo stik used to be great, but do it in a well ventilated space or you might be away with the fairies quite quickly. I also used to like a product called something like eurothanebond, by Dow Corning. It seemed to stick almost anything, but thankfully, not fingers. Brian

[Paul]

It works best if it is clamped. That forces the excess polyurethane out of the gap.

Paul

[SteveW]

Quite a few kit-car people bond the front mudguards (aka cycle wings) to steel brackets using Sikaflex 292i. It holds foot wide mudguards, with their front edge exposed to the wind a trying to rip them off, on motorways and race tracks.

[Andy Burns]

That'll be "mitre" rather than "Mitre", referring to the type of joint it's typically used on, rather than a brand name.

It's just superglue and accelerator.

[Peter Johnson]

snip

The kickboards in my bathroom and shower room are held in place using ordinary silicon. Been there for over ten years now.

[alan_m]

When you see woodworkers use superglue on Youtube videos it is used in conjunction with traditional woodworking glue. The superglue used in small dabs just allows two pieces to be joined and held firmly in place whilst either the traditional glue cures or clamps are applied.

[The Natural Philosopher]

It is amazing to many people that actually the best glue for wood work is in fact the cheapest - simply white glue PVA or the aliphatic variety.

Provided the two surfaces mate well and pressure is applied, the glue exceeds the strength of the wood.

[Andy Burns]

Yes sometimes, though usually the dabs of superglue are instead of clamping/screwing/pinning while the traditional glue dries, but mitre adhesive is superglue+accelerator used instead of any thing else ... and it works pretty well for e.g. kitchen cabinet cornices and pelmets.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Superglue bonds well, but it is brittle , expensive, and very hard to sand.

I use as little of it as I can get away with.

[Ian Jackson]

I recently bought a tube of Loctite 60 sec All Purpose Glue.

[Tiny URL doesn't seem to be working with XP] It turned out to be a form of gel superglue (and does seem to work).