Accurate hand-held drilling

Feb 06, 2017 58 Replies

Wot e said.

And those 4 mm screws will still tighten up fine if it's a shade out.

In a more industrial setting, there's the "drill bushing":

which is a hardened steel guide which is installed in a jig. It takes the wear of guiding the spinning bit. They also come in different inner hole diameters with the same outer diameters, allowing one to swap bushings to accommodate different drill bit diameters.

Thomas Prufer

I've drilled many drawer fronts and cupboard doors without using any device to ensure absolute perpendicularity. (Dunno if that's a word but it is now). ;-)

You can get simple plastic positioning guides to align the holes with respect to the drawer front/top/bottom etc and then drill "free hand".

For example,

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As long as the holes in the drawer front are accurately aligned with the corresponding holes in the handles a slight deviation in the hole angle is of little consequence. I think you're over-complicating a simple task.

Tim

TBH all you need to do is drill a pilot very carefully, ling up by eye from the two relevant dimensions. Then drill the big 'un

That is entirely possible. And in one respect, it's even easier than kitchens I've worked on before, since the reverse of the doors are already marked with drilling points for standard-size handles. Mind you, this encourages drilling from back to front, so any wandering will happen on the less favourable side.

Bert

The doors I'm fitting have come with pre-marked indentations for standard handle sizes. But of course these are on the back of the doors, and drilling from that side means that any wander occurs on the front, where it's rather less accommodatable. A jig is a good idea.

Bert

Do you have a Bench pillar drill? If you are worried, why not use that?

I've used a 3D printer I have access to (because I mostly built it ) to print all sorts of templates and jigs (often revisable / multi-purpose) and that makes the job very easy (both making the jig and drilling the holes though it).

The PLA 'plastic' we use isn't the best material in the world for such jobs, especially if the bit gets hot but as long as you consider that, it will generally see the job out (or you can print more). ;-)

This does require access to a 3D printer of course ... ;-)

Cheers, T i m

kitchen in requiring a significant number of handles to attach, I simply ma de a MDF jig that hooked over one edge self aligned against the top/bottom edge of the doors and drilled through preset holes in the jig. It was still serviceable after 20+ handles and every hole was spot on. I think I used a 4.5mm drill just to allow for a slight adjustment.

Surely it's quicker, more durable & far cheaper to make a jig the old way.

I would like to see the day us diyers start building houses using huge 3d p rinters.

NT

+1, very well worth doing. Also for positioning hinges, if you don't have pre-drilled carcases.

Drill from both sides. You need clearance for the spindles. The entry holes need to be accurate, the perpendicularity of the hole is unimportant. The spindle does need to go square between the handles to avoid binding in the latch, but that is set by the handle positions.

And I've been telling myself I don't want one, there's nothing useful I could do with it.

T i m, I'd love to have a 3D printer to play with, but alas I haven't.

Bert

I do, but it's not available at the moment.

Bert

That can depend on the complexity of the jig in both how long it takes to design and print versus how long to design, source the materials and make (accurately)?

I wouldn't say so. The 3d printed stuff is nearly indestructible (from a general impact / abuse pov) and would cost pence to actually print (once you have the printer of course). ;-)

It's being done already of course and some of it done (or started) by d-i-y'ers. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Oh, mate, ours could (and has some times) been running all day, every day, there are just so many things you can make with them (including the bits for more printers). When I get a sec I'll see if I can knock up a list of the things I've done so far. ;-)

And you can build it yourself of course, keeping it strictly on d-i-y topic. ;-)

I really wouldn't be without one now (seriously).

(This is what we have):

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Cheers, T i m

If you had a spec (or we came up with one) and you could wait a bit, I might be able to print a template for you (foc)?

Cheers, T i m

Don't know about that part but a bit of tape round the drill works for depth!

For the most part its usually OK to do it by feel of the drill. After all Rawl plugs are not the most accurate devices in the world. brian

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