Access area in floor under radiator?

[David]

I am shortly (for a very loose definition of shortly because I keep getting diverted) going to lay a tongue and groove (probably) OSB floor to the lounge. The floor will be treated (probably varnish) and left bare i.e. not covered by any floor covering.

Now this will involve drilling holes for central heating pipes in one board near its end.

It seems to me that having just a very short run of flooring under the radiator so that it can be independently lifted to gain access to the pipework (should this be required) could be a good labour saving device.

It could also make the fitting of the pipework easier in the first place as I could kneel on the main floor and just joggle the panel into place with the pipes through it, avoiding any unsightly slots in the floor.

I would have to un-tongue or un-groove the board enough to be able to lift and replace.

Anyone done this? Any obvious 'gotchas'?

Cheers

Dave R

[spuorgelgoog]

If you only drill holes in the board and poke the pipes through, you won't be able to remove the board subsequently without dismantling the radiator.

Better to cut slots in the board so you can lift the board out with the plumbinggubbins in situ.

Owain

[Chris French]

If you cut slots, cut them in a wedge shape, with the bit behind the pipes the wider end. Keep the bit cutout.

Then when the board is fitted you can take the little cutout bit, trim to a suitable size and then stick it back in the gap behind the pipe. filling the gap, adn the cut isn't really noticeable.

If you need to remove the board you can probably prise the cutout bit out (though I've never had to do so, but that would be my plan, I use UHU type glue to hold it

[David]

I was thinking that the board could slide up the pipes for a quick and desperate fettle.

However if I want to close the valves and disconnect the pipes that is still a lot easier if I only have to lift a very small section of floor.

What I don't want is what should be a minor plumbing issue having me tear up the entire floor. If it is T&G 8*4 boards then getting the buggers apart and up would be a major undertaking.

Granted that if I combined the small floor panel with slots I could get the ease of floor lifting with the ability to take the panel out without draining the CH.

Cheers

Dave R

[fred]

Alternatively, if you drill holes for the pipes then cut across the board bisecting the holes then you should be able to lift a de-tongued board out and then pull it out and forward once there is enough slant on it to clear the shoulders around the half circle.

I would fill the groove of the adjacent board and add a foam draughtstrip to the de-tongued edge of the removable board.

[GMM]

An alternative (since you're doing what seems to be a major job anyway and you'll have the floor up) would be to consider re-configuring the radiator feed. (My plumber/gas man did this as part of a job a few years ago and I've been doing similar since then.) If you take the pipework up behind the skirting using plastic, emerging behind the radiator, these pipes can be taken to each side or the rad almost invisibly, using right angled tails. This should be possible without disturbing the skirting, although you will have to patch the plaster behind the rad (but nobody will see it). The advantage would be that you don't need any slots or holes in your flooring, which is now clear to the wall. I would still plan for a removable hatch to access the pipework.

[David]

Thanks - that looks an interesting idea.

Cheers

Dave R

[Alan Braggins]

Oh yes! DAMHIKT.