I have a radiator, I believe of the Stelrad type with the round top. It had a square key on the back that is very tight and is difficult to get to.
I have a key that fitted, but was of the die-cast variety and is now broken though a combination of force require and it being weak.
I have measured what's left of this key and the internal measurements are a nominal 5.2mm square.
The standard key I can get is way too large, presumably 1/4".
An ideas where can I get a *strong* key that will fit?
maybe a small socket on a ratchet?
5.2mm is 7/32" isn't it?In article , Fredxxx writes
I have a feeling that 5mm square is the standard size. Just measured my Stelrad bleed valves here and they are 4.92mm so that fits and I don't remember buying anything other than standard off the shelf bleed keys in the past (can't measure one as I have misplaced all 3 that I have in stock - don't go there).
If true then this should do the job:
Hopefully another will confirm.
FWIW, I wasn't aware that Stelrad did round top rads and have def not seen one with a bleed valve on the back.
According to my maths 7/32" is 5.56mm.
There isn't enough room to put a socket between the rad and the wall and we're talking a square end.
I thought Stelrad had the patent to save welding a seam? Most others are roll-welded or spot-welded.
Most keys I have are far too big. If the Toolstation one is the same size as the Screwfix one then it'll also be too big.
I had one of those radiators with the vent on the back and a bugger to open, chewed up the alloy type key. The best is a brass type that looks like an antique clock winder.
Richard
Presumably the complete assembly unscrews in the normal way? Could you "counterbore" the seat part after removing the screw to give more clearance? Or replace the assembly with one which has more clearance.
newshound wrote in news:xeGdnU-qNuXVHO snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:
I think the assembly is welded in.
As DerbyBorn has said the assembly is part of the radiator and welded in place.
Its moved in the past, so should be easy to move again, with the right sized radiator key of course.
Yes, the 'clock key' type is much easier on the fingers when the valve is tight - it might also be easier (CBA to go and look) to cut down in length a bit by trimming its 'wings'. Otherwise, cut down a key and either file flats on it or use grips - it won't be strong, due too being hollow, but might do the job.
BTW, I always put a bit of eraser, blu-tac or something in the key so that the nipple doesn't go in too far. I once had to take out a nipple completely to put a bit of gung on it to stop it leaking and then found out how difficult it was to get started back in even with only about 8' head on it.
I've used one of these;
with one of the 'legs' cut off to bleed rads that have the rear bleed nipples.
The Medway Handyman wrote in news:GLEcv.81518$ snipped-for-privacy@fx34.am:
These often get turned the wrong way and this starts the damage. Also many keys have a chamfer to lead them into the square. Maybe filing a few milimetres off the front face of the key will restore a part of the square hole that hasn't been used before.
What a retrograde bit of design.
I ground the front chamfer of a standard key to try and see if there was any purchase, and there was none.
I have 3 radiators where the old Draper die-cast key fits nicely where standard keys just spin.
Having had problems now with several radiator bleed valves jamming I have decided it would be best to go round all the radiators ever 2 months, opening and closing the valves, hopefully this will keep them free. following a previous post on here by myself I had to take a radiator off and give it the heat treatment, that and judicial hammering got it free. It was necessary to remove the radiator to access the valve easily.
I always grease mine using waterproof stern tube grease.
Robert
RobertL wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Agree - don't overtighten and when the system is drained use a bit of lube. Same goes for taps. I have never had any problem dismantling a tap because I always apply a smear of grease to the threads. Never over- tighten. Allow for things being tightened a bit further if they actually leak.
Managed to locate my recently purchased ones and they are intended to fit 5mm sq as they have broached internal corners at 5.08mm. The problem is that they have done the broaching on the cheap by drilling a 5.8mm hole first then broaching out the corners. This means that if the corners on the bleed valve have been rounded then there is a risk of slippage. Any chance that this might be the reason for your sloppy fit?
You can see the effect of the cheap machining on the picture here:
So 5mm is the general size of bleed valves. I assumed that wasn't the case and most were larger.
You are probably right that the ones I have must be made with a centre
5.8mm hole and just spin on the valves I have.
Just measured mine. 5.62mm or 0.22"
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