,
I never told you what I did, you just flatly stated that it doesn't work, which is wrong.
I'm quite prepared to believed that that in the context of a busy workshop, it has little to offer but for the average DIYer who has time on his hand, it's a useful tool.
For most jobs in my experience, you don't need to soak it for a week as the size of the bolt, the orientation, possibly the thread type, the amount of rust etc. will all have an effect on soaking time.
Tim
No, but it works after a short soak/spray.
,
You start with new ones & subject them all to the same accelertaed corrosion test. If you're bored there's standards for it you can look up.
Stick it on & try again tomorrow works for me, if it's a hurry then split the nut.But it still works the way it says it does.
Nail varnish removers the thing I find best.
In message , Duncan Wood writes
I happen to have a trailer (converted from an ancient artic lorry) which has 8 studs to the wheel and 2 axles. It has sat outside for more than
20 years without needing a wheel change.In the interests of scientific exploration I am willing to let some mug apply various release agents and do a front to rear wheel change.
In the event of partial failure, a 3/4 inch wrench and a length of scaffold pole will be made available:-)
For years, pissed off with the extortionate prices being charged for really cheap thin oil, I've been using a diesel/motoroil mix in a spray bottle. Works fine and saved me a lot over the decades.
Copied from another place.
Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.
The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price
Interesting figures and not a bad home brew formula.
I have been using Wurth Rost Off penetrating oil and that seems to work. Not sure how that compares with the rest, I do know that WD40 is not much chop.
yes. I never had much luck with WD40. we used to use oxy-acetylene or blowlamps, red heat then WD40 on the stud, which cooled, shrank and then broke the rust seal.
You don't always need red hot. Any reasonable heat at all may break the bond provided by corrosion. A kettle of boiling water may do it. Or a MIG welder for those who don't have oxy-acetylene - provided the nut etc can be replaced.
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required