If you can see the bottom of the stick, is there any chance of dropping a
weighted loop of string down from the top and out the bottom?
If so, you could pass the loop under the cut off bottom of the stick and
use the string to pull it back up. If the string isn't strong enough you
could use it to pull through something stronger once you've got the loop to
Somebody else suggested using the 10mm pipe to do something similar. I
managed to get the 10mm pipe all the way down from the top and tried
fitting a penny washer to a bolt and screwing it into the end of the
pipe - close, but no banana. Tomorrow I'll try fabricating or turning a
piece of something to attach to the pipe to lift the wood - this seems
the best strategy.
On 20/09/2017 14:19, email@example.com wrote:
Ah, so even after you remove the lead or other sealant you face 80-odd
years of rust ;)
As a variant on some other options, do you have ladder access to the
top? If so you could drop string down the pipe to attach to the wood.
Several lengths might enable you to make a cat's cradle. But the snag
is it'll tend to snag on the way up on all those lovely bits of rusty
iron - the more so with the string attached at the bottom .
All in all, I think I'd be telling myself that removing 20mm at a time
with a multitool must be good for me in many ways - eg blood pressure,
karma, a chapter for "Zen and the Art of House Maintenance"
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid
On 20/09/2017 00:50, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
As others have said, I'd agree that the fixings are probably hammered
and the easiest way to remove would be to take the head right off with
an angle grinder.
As others have said, the bottom fixing may well be taking a lot of the
weight from stuff above.
Would also add that parts are cast iron, and potentially more brittle
after 80 years of corrosion.
As others have said, the "socket" joints may well be sealed with putty
which will have gone relatively hard. But, even old putty softens when
heated to ~ 200C with a gas torch or hot air gun. You *might* be able to
separate the sockets with a combination of heat and twisting.
Rather than removing the elbow at the bottom, wouldn't it be better to
tackle the next joint up then you can remove the wood in one piece? Also
you will be working at an easier height.
Another approach, if you can find a reasonable match to the bottom
length of pipe in a recycling place, might just be to destroy the bottom
section. This may be harder than you expect: multiple cuts with angle
grinder, then lump hammer and/or crowbar.
Once one section is broken above or below a joint, it is usually
possible with care to remove the remaining pieces without damaging the
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