1930s cast iron downpipe fixings - what are they?

On 20/09/2017 16:00, snipped-for-privacy@nomail.com wrote:

I used garden hose when I had a blockage in a pipe with a tight bend. Worked a treat.
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On 20/09/2017 17:38, GB wrote:

I tried tonight, it was too flexible
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Plug the shoe and fill the pipe with water?
I actually have a couple of lengths of cast iron rainwater downpipe in my scrap pile.....
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If you can see the bottom of the stick, is there any chance of dropping a weighted loop of string down from the top and out the bottom?
If so, you could pass the loop under the cut off bottom of the stick and use the string to pull it back up. If the string isn't strong enough you could use it to pull through something stronger once you've got the loop to the bottom.
Tim
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On 20/09/2017 21:12, Tim+ wrote:

Somebody else suggested using the 10mm pipe to do something similar. I managed to get the 10mm pipe all the way down from the top and tried fitting a penny washer to a bolt and screwing it into the end of the pipe - close, but no banana. Tomorrow I'll try fabricating or turning a piece of something to attach to the pipe to lift the wood - this seems the best strategy.
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On Thu, 21 Sep 2017 00:19:55 +0100, nomail wrote:

A coach screw on the end of the pipe?
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On 20/09/2017 00:50, snipped-for-privacy@nomail.com wrote:

Is this with a view to separating the "shoe" from the downpipe?
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On 20/09/2017 10:05, Robin wrote:

Yes, but others are making me rethink that idea.
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On 20/09/2017 14:19, snipped-for-privacy@nomail.com wrote:

Ah, so even after you remove the lead or other sealant you face 80-odd years of rust ;)
As a variant on some other options, do you have ladder access to the top? If so you could drop string down the pipe to attach to the wood. Several lengths might enable you to make a cat's cradle. But the snag is it'll tend to snag on the way up on all those lovely bits of rusty iron - the more so with the string attached at the bottom .
All in all, I think I'd be telling myself that removing 20mm at a time with a multitool must be good for me in many ways - eg blood pressure, karma, a chapter for "Zen and the Art of House Maintenance"
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Are you sure you cannot get a tool to get it out through the top? I'm sur I've seen long tools that clamp to things down pipes in the past. Brian
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Brian Gaff wrote:

Fill the downpipe with sodium hydroxide, that ought to eat the wood, but not the iron :-)
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On 20/09/17 12:57, Andy Burns wrote:

Indeed, if you can pressurise to about 3 bar and heat it up to several hundred degrees.... it should turn to paper pulp...:-)
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On 20/09/2017 00:50, snipped-for-privacy@nomail.com wrote:

As others have said, I'd agree that the fixings are probably hammered and the easiest way to remove would be to take the head right off with an angle grinder.
As others have said, the bottom fixing may well be taking a lot of the weight from stuff above.
Would also add that parts are cast iron, and potentially more brittle after 80 years of corrosion.
As others have said, the "socket" joints may well be sealed with putty which will have gone relatively hard. But, even old putty softens when heated to ~ 200C with a gas torch or hot air gun. You *might* be able to separate the sockets with a combination of heat and twisting.
Rather than removing the elbow at the bottom, wouldn't it be better to tackle the next joint up then you can remove the wood in one piece? Also you will be working at an easier height.
Another approach, if you can find a reasonable match to the bottom length of pipe in a recycling place, might just be to destroy the bottom section. This may be harder than you expect: multiple cuts with angle grinder, then lump hammer and/or crowbar.
Once one section is broken above or below a joint, it is usually possible with care to remove the remaining pieces without damaging the "good" part.
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On 20/09/2017 12:20, newshound wrote:

Yes, I'll remove/refit (it needs painting so makes that job easier) or replace if I can't do it any other way
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On 20/09/2017 00:50, snipped-for-privacy@nomail.com wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood may float up to the top.
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alan_m wrote:

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney effect should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with a beer then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!
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On 20/09/17 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:

+1 because it involves fire and burning stuff.
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On 20/09/2017 13:11, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Block off the bottom - fill the pipe with petrol.........
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On 20/09/2017 13:48, alan_m wrote:

and film it for the Darwin awards? ;-)
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On 20/09/2017 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:

Tempting, but that would wreck what paint is on still attached to the pipe and (probably) accelerate the internal corrosion
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