Alright, looking for input from you guys. Let's keep this thread going and keep adding to it. Maybe we'll hit rough measurements on just about everything. Once we can agree on the BEST rough measurements (we don't all use the same), I'll make up some wallet cards and post them here. The idea is to share rough measurements that work pretty much across the board.
------------------------------------------------------------------- Lavatory (drop-in, not wall hung or pedestal) Water - turn out at 22" off floor Drain - turn out 1½" pipe 19-1/2" off floor
------------------------------------------------------------------- Water Closet (standard tank type) Flange - 12-3/4" off frame wall (back) and center to room/space Hole - cut 4½" hole in floor for flange. If larger, you're screws won't catch any wood Water: (from center of flange) - Measure 5" left and stub out 8" off the floor Notes: Secure to floor with screws. Use ALL 6 SCREW HOLES
Floor Finish - on tile floor, raise flange 1" to accommodate to thickness of tile and hardibacker
Restrictions: Must have 15" clear for standard / 18" for ADA (refers to walls, cabinets, etc. must measure to 15"/18" to center of flange
Restrictions 2 - Clear area in front of toilet - 22"
------------------------------------------------------------------- Water Closet (ADA tank/commercial) Flange - 12-3/4" off frame wall (back) and center to room/space Hole - cut 4½" hole in floor for flange. If larger, you're screws won't catch any wood (YOU'LL PROBABLY BE WORKING ON A CONCRETE FLOOR IN COMMERCIAL Water: (from center of flange) - Measure 5" left and stub out 8" off the floor Notes: Secure to floor with screws. Use ALL 6 SCREW HOLES (I LIKE TO MOUNT THE FLANGE EXACTLY AT FLOOR LEVEL (WITH SCREWS) AND LET THE CONCRETE MAN POUR AROUND MY FLANGE. PROTECT IT WITH TAPE AND CARDBOARD. THE SCREWS DON'T DO ANYTHING BUT KEEP THE INSPECTOR HAPPY.
Floor Finish - on tile floor, raise flange 1" to accommodate to thickness of tile and hardibacker
Restrictions: Must have 15" clear for standard / 18" for ADA (refers to walls, cabinets, etc. must measure to 15"/18" to center of flange
- ADA toilet MUST be labelled ADA or the height will be wrong
- You MUST use elongated bowl in commercial
- You MUST use open-front seat in commercial
- In ADA stall, you flush to the wide side. you'll need to buy a different tank if the wide side is the RIGHT side. You'll have to get a tank with flush handle on the right side.
- In ADA installation, partitions and hand rails MUST be installed before you call for final inspection. Partitions and hand rails MUST comply to ADA code. Be sure your contractor doesn't overlook his ADA measurements and cause you BOTH to fail inspection
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That's all for now. But we still need someone to hop in and share notes on other fixtures like:
- Wall hung lavatory (ADA)
- Wall hung lavatory (standard)
- Pedestal Lavatory
- Urinal (ADA)
- Urinal (standard)
- Drinking Fountain (hi-low and standard)
- Water Heater (electric and gas)
- Tubs/Showers
- Hose Bibbs
- Clothes Washer (washer box)
- Kitchen Sink
I'm looking for input on this stuff because measurements can always be improved. I was roughing my lavatory drain at 18" for years. When I came back to set fixtures, I always needed an extender tube for my lavatory. I made a mental note..and I would forget and go with my 18" drain height that had become habit. One of you guys suggested 19-1/2" which was an improvement. So any input would be a huge help. If we all keep adding to this thread, at the end of it, you'll have a long list of measurements you can print out for yourself (if you need them). And maybe someone will have a better way (you guys suggested 19-1/2" for my lavatory drain and you guys suggested 80" on my shower head (I've been using 78" for years). We get in a rut and keep doing things the way we always have. Pin-point balls-on accurate measurements that consider different manufacturer measurements are the ideal.