I am considering building a greenhouse for my orchids. It is the humidity that I want/need. Living in Southern California, low temperatures are not much of a problem.
Also, seems like most orchid growers in the area (Normans, SBOE) use shade cloth or opal translucent polycarbonate panels overhead.
I am looking for a greenhouse kit with these opal translucent polycarbonate panels for the roof. All that I can find seem to use clear panels.
What are you folks using? Clear glass/polycarbonate with shadecloth or opal panels?
Also seems that clear glass would make the GH hotter than heck, even with the use of shadecloth.
Thanks for any advice.
Vito
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I have saved some orchids and will attempt a response here. The first step is to...
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tbell
On Tue, 13 May 2008 21:27:31 -0700, Uncle_vito wrote (in article <sYidnUgTpqSw97fVnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@linkline.com):
Up here we have both extreme heat (2-3 weeks or so > 100? in Summer) and some cold (2-3 weeks or so of frost with 20s and 30s in Winter). I built a Charley's Greenhouse Solar Gro kit with polycarbonate twin wall, a gravel floor, an under bench misting system, and an exhaust fan. I also use a metallic shade screen during the Summer. This has kept my orchids alive without a cooler except when a power failure and surge triggered the GFCI while I was away for a weekend.
Tom Walnut Creek, CA Nikon D200
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Chris Savas
In addtion to comments that are offerred here, you might check with your local agricultural extension office. They probably have information on greenhouses that might help you decide.
In my case, in 1994, I had built for me an 8 by 20 aluminum frame, lean-to. Then I had sliding aluminum windows installed on the side walls. The side windows are of 6-mil Mylar clear plastic. The roof is of UV corregated plastic. Yet, I have 50% shade cloth (inside) that stays in place all year except for during the winter. I unsnap some sections to permit more light at that time. (I live in Central Florida, Zone 9.)
The floor was graded (raked) so as to slope away from the house. On the dirt, I put a double layer of black plastic sheeting to help water flow away from the house and to inhibit weed growth. On top of the plastic I filled about six inches of river gravel.
A friend helped me build a shelving systemg. It consists of five steps up, made with (at that time) treated lumber slats. There are two sections, each six feet long and just less than five feet high. This allows about a two-foot access space between the sections and at the ends.
The plants have done just fine in this system. The windows are always generally open (slide down), but are closed during winter when the temperatures go below the 50's. I have an electric space heater/fan that has done well for us. The only other time that the windows were closed was during the 2004 hurricane. The windows and plastic withstood the winds very nicely. (I had two windows at opposite ends open about 6 inches to avoid pressure differential between inside and outside.) I have only replaced the plastic once in all the time, and that was because of water staining from age, etc.
I wish you well with your efforts.
Chris (Remove not from the address to reply directly.)
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Diana Kulaga
Chris, I wouldn't mind seeing this system over on abpo, if you have time to take the photos and post them. I'm having a hard time picturing it, and I'm always looking for ways to increase my space.
Diana
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Doug Houseman
I use pre cut step boards to create step up units...mine are 4, 5 and 6 steps high. I also use plastic lattice as a roof over my orchids (about
60% shade. Each unit is built 4 x 8 feet in size. In the spring the shelf boards (which are held in place by gravity) are removed and we carry the units out of the greenhouse around to the east side of the house and set them up in the weather for the summer. I have 4 units that we move each spring and fall. I use the lattice "roof" in the spring to start seedlings of tomatoes and other garden plants - this helps cut the direct sunlight at mid day more..
End view...
---------------- Lattice roof XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 2 x 4 on edge every 4 feet X X 2 x 4 vertical every 4 feet X X X X ==== X top shelf PPPP ==== X X OPPPP=== X X O PPPPPP===X XXXXXXXXXPPPPPPX
Where P is 4 step pressure treated desk stairs runner Where = is 2 x 6 cedar shelf boards 8 feet long Where X is a 2 x 4 Where - is white plastic lattice Where the "O" in OPPPP is a 2 4 that runs the length of the bench (parallel to the shelf boards and is used to secure the 3 frames (one at
8 inches in, one at the mid point 4 feet in and one at the other end 8 inches in)... Where the other O is a similar 2 x4 that is attached at the base
I use 3 1 x 2 to run the length of the top under the lattice to keep it from sagging too badly - 6 inches in from front and back and in the center - they run the same direction as the shelf boards...
Hope this helps - the bench once dry (about 4 months for the pressure treated boards to get fully dry) weighs about 60 pounds and 2 in shape adults can easily move it from place to place. We normally balance it on our garden wagon to roll it - spring and fall.
Doug
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Wendy7
I forgot to mention Uncle Vito, your initial query on humidity. If I had to do it again, & no existing concrete slab, I would put heavy duty plastic weed liner down (it breathes) then crushed brick. Building suppliers actually sell it & I heard it holds moisture like crazy & therefore more humidity. Cheers Wendy
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Uncle_vito
Thanks for all the great comments. Seems I have lots of work to do.
Vito
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