You can have 3 wheels "on the ground" and still have the jack stand
carrying half the weight of the car -
A pair of 2000 lb stands can support 2000 lbs, not 4000. Stands are
solad AS A PAIR and the rating is FOR THE PAIR.. So, ONE stand is good
for 1000 lbs, not 2000 - and the curb weight of a K-Car is a minimum
of 2300 lbs. - so if ONE stand is supporting one side of the front of
the K-Car, it will be shifting the weight of the car to the opposite
rear wheel - taking load off both the opposite front and the same-side
rear wheel - so the stand is taking a load SUBSTANTIALLY over 1000
If 2 stands are used under one side of a car, the car transfers weight
to the opposite side, and the 2 stands combined are holdinf
substantially UNDER half the weight of the car.
If the 2 stands are used under the front of the car, depending where
the stands are located they can either transfer load to the rear
wheels or take load off the rear wheels - so the stands can be taking
close to half the weight of the car, or substantially more. 2 to jack
stands are "light duty" stands. Knowing how to use them properly is
required to be safe.
This doesn't take into account the folly of using them on irregular or
soft surfaces, which can put over 30% more load on each of 3 legs
contacting the floor if one is not contacting the floor.
Which way is the grain oriented? Using a piece of log, upright the
way it grows, is NOT a safe stand for most applications. Building a
pilon of stacked 4x4 "logs" is - but it's clumsy
I'm not convinced any other jack stand design is any safer
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 11 Aug 2017 20:49:20 -0400,
I don't know what Derby does, but those guys who break a board with a
karate chop have the board oriented 90^ from the way it looks. People
are used to the grain running parallel to the long side of a board,
which makes it hard to break a board, but when they do it, the grain is
parallel to the short side. People look at the wood and think
otherwise, so the guy looks amazingly powerful. I find this all sort
Old growth hickory would be hard to split even with an axe or maul -
so it would LIKELY be safe. I'd still ise any of my purpose built jack
stands ahead of the block of wood end-grade up, regartdless. I HAVE
used wood, and rocks, and all kinds of other stuff when stuck "in the
bush" when nothing else was available - but I was VERY carefull!!
After 48 years using various jacks and stands I know what to trust -
and a jack stand on sand does not make the cut. A big block of wood
strategically placed as a backup DOES make "dodgy" setups a little
more re-assuring. (as does a couple og wheels and tires stacked under
the car). Wouldn't want to use them as the main support - and always
hoping they won't be needed.
If I had to compare it to architectural designing, the arch support
entryway is stronger than the basic square (90 degree) entryway. The
same for arch bridges. The weight is distributed more evenly in all
angles than compared to all the weight at the ell angle.
I would use it but I prefer the the conventional jack stands.
I'd feel safe but I'd also feel safe with a jack stand that doesn't cost
$140. If you're worried about the welds I'm surprised you're not looking
at the pins and wondering what their shear strength is. Ultimately
that's what is going to hold the weight up.
You don't worry that the shear strength might not be up to spec? If it's made in Communist
China, I sure would -- I've encountered plenty of "Grade 8" ChiComm bolts that were no
harder than a US-made Grade 2.
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