I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
I am beginning to think that is the problem.I tried regular wood shims
like you use for shimming windows and the longer plastic ones. The last
ones seemed to go toward the center of the post as they got further in.
Now, to figure a way to check that out easily.
That is an indication that the post is rotted below ground level . Bite the
bullet and replace it with a bigger timber and be sure the concrete you set
it in comes above ground level and is sloped to shed rain water . IMO gate
posts should always be 6x6 minumum . Another thing I do if I build a gate ,
I make the frame of welded steel . Guaranteed not to sag , ever . I've even
retrofitted steel framework to existing saggy wooden gates ...
How long has it been there and any idea of what kind of post/treatment
it had? If it was one of the recent pine posts w/o the real creosote
treatment, it could be almost completely rotted out in as few as 5 yr or
so from what I've observed.
I'd guess the only alternative is to just bite the bullet and replace
it; you'll waste more time and effort futzing around that it'll be to
just do what needs done.
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:07:16 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
That's a good point. IDK that treated wood normally would just shrink
like that without something more being wrong, ie that it may be rotted
out down where you can't see. But I guess one could try pouring some
epoxy or similar in there, especially if you happen to already have
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
Choose the one like Goldielocks did. But following DPB's post, I tend
to think that more is probably wrong than just the alleged shrinkage,
ie that good chance it rotted down below, in which case the epoxy
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 09:30:24 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
This just demonstrates the fallacy of "treated" lumber. Virtually all
of it is just washed in the chemical and the treatment is superficial
at best. If you can't buy something that is over "2" (not 0.2) CCA,
you are going to be replacing it if it is in the ground. The only
place to find that will be a marine contractor supply or a place that
supplies utility poles. Typically that will be 2.5 CCA. The home depot
stuff may be safe to eat but it is not going to last long in the
ground in spite of what the label says.
I would replace that post with a 6" 2.5 CCA post. If he is near Ft
Myers, I have a 7' piling he can have for hauling it away.
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 12:30:31 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
I don't know if it's a matter of "choose" or of "mix".
When I used to use epoxy on a fairly regular basis, I'd buy the
cans of liquid and then various containers of fillers. I'd add
the proper filler based on the specific use.
Just be careful about what you mix your epoxy in:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 10:43:11 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
In deference to Toby Keith, it is hard to beat a red solo cup for
mixing epoxy. They also come in "bathroom" size to mix small batches.
I get popcicle sticks at the dollar store for mixers. You can get
little ones or the regular popcicle size. For bigger jobs, use tongue
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 3:45:07 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
We used to cut 64 oz juice and laundry detergent bottles right below the
handle for mixing large batches, especially when using filler. The wide
opening made folding in the filler very easy.
The small resin rollers fit in them as well, not that we had a lot
of time to sit around resting our rollers. ;-)
Anything like that seems to me a pure waste of time and particularly w/
an epoxy $$. If the post is already rotted to such a degree (and seems
pretty clear to me must be if was set in concrete), it'll just go ahead
and finish rotting inside the new shell like it has already.
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