Wood cutting problem

[Frank]

Went to look at my BD saw and it once had an edge guide. I'd think Skilsaws would have them.

[clare]

No, just remove the screws, shidt the board hald an inch lenthwize, and in to the next requires position, and refasten with the screwas in the same holes in the saw. For cripes sake, it's NOT ROCKET SCIENCE.

And nor are mine. 2 holes in the sole plate of a saw never hurt the saw, and they make the saw a whole lot more usefull

[Don Y]

And this is HOW much easier than clamping a straight edge to the board in question?

"For cripes sake, its not rocket science!"

How do you rip a 4x8' sheet of plywood with your approach? I just move my guide and reclamp it...

[clare]

That depemds on the width of the board and the strips required You start with a 6 inch nominal board (5 1/2") board. You need to cut it into 8 peices. That's 6 cuts that's 3/4" wasted in cuts, leaving each strip just a shade under 0.6". How are you going to cut that board with a straight edge clamped to the board? Or try cuttimg cedar strips for a canoe out of 1X10 rough resawn lumber from an old hydro pole- 16 or 18 feet long. My method works. Not sure yours will. I can clamp the handle of mine into a workmate and use it like a table saw.

And my solution does not preclude cutting the plywood using a straight-edge. In fact I also have an adapter - can't remember the name of it right off hand - that makes my circular saw into a track-saw for cutting panels. An aluminum track about 10 feet long is screwed to an 8 foot X 2 foot shunk of 1 inch baltic birch Sheet of plywood buts to the track, "T" carriage slides in the track carrying the saw across the sheet, cutting it to whatever dimension you choose and can cur the panel in half the short dimension as well. I can re-adjust to whatever dimension I want in seconds - guaranteed square every time. I can use it with a router instead of the saw too - to sloy a panel to look like boards / bead-board panel, or even slot-boards. Instead of the somewhat dodgy clamps to hold the saw to the carriage, I can bolt it precisely in place using those 2 screw holes in the sole plate.

>

[Don Y]

Mark 0.6" from edge of board. Align with blade (of WHATEVER type of saw you are using!). Lay guide against side of shoe. Clamp. Cut. Repeat.

When the width of the board is no longer sufficient to *support* the shoe and the guide, lay another board alongside -- anything that has the same *thickness* as the first board.

And my solution doesn't preclude putting the 6" board on a bandsaw and cutting it there, either!

Or, for scoring drywall.

Or, 80 lb roofing felt.

[clare]

Which is not the method I responded too. I was responding to clamping the guide to the board. Clamping or screwing the guide to the plate is in essence the same method, but clamps dlip. Clamps get in the way. Clamps get knocked off. Screws hold tight, stay out of the way, and will never slip.

If you have a bandsaw the whole situation changes.

And I have a drywall square for that

Ditto

[gfretwell]

There used to be a trick in the old "mechanix" type magazines about making a table saw by screwing your circular saw to a piece of plywood, flipping it over and screwing the plywood to saw horses. If you screwed a guide to the plywood it would be trivial to rip down that lumber.

[DerbyDad03]

I posted a video of one of those earlier in this thread.

Here ya go...

[quote]

For a simple task like ripping, a homemade table saw might work. This is just one example, youtube has other methods:

[/quote]

[clare]

And he drilled thew sole plate to screw it to the "table" tt