I have some 15 or so long wooden pieces, ~ 6" wide, 4 - 5' long. I will
need to make these into a narrower strips. I have Skilsaw, hand saws, saber
saw, and a bench vise. Unfortunately, no table saw or access to one. The
only way I see is using the hand or possibly saber saw and the vise to make
the cuts. Very slow work and an easy way to miscut. Any ideas? Or give up
on that project that requires these strips?
You know it's time to clean the refrigerator
when something closes the door from the inside.
| I have some 15 or so long wooden pieces, ~ 6" wide, 4 - 5' long. I will
| need to make these into a narrower strips. I have Skilsaw, hand saws,
| saw, and a bench vise. Unfortunately, no table saw or access to one. The
| only way I see is using the hand or possibly saber saw and the vise to
| the cuts. Very slow work and an easy way to miscut. Any ideas? Or give up
| on that project that requires these strips?
Do you have any C clamps? If it were me I'd clamp
a straight edge (ideally a piece of factory cut birch ply)
to the wood for cutting, then cut it over a box, barrel,
or some such. Cut one end while supported, then switch
the support to finish the cut.
Caveats: The offset of the blade is probably about 1 1/2",
so there's a limit to how thin a board can be with this
method. Also, be sure to put some little shims under the
C clamp tips. Otherwise you'll make circular dents in the
How thin will the resulting strips need to be?
(Half) the width of the "foot" on the sabre saw is no doubt skinnier than
the 6". Measure the distance from the blade to the right (or left) edge
of the foot. To this, add the thickness of the desired strip. Fasten
a guide ("fence") to the 6" wide piece at this distance from the edge.
Rip the board while holding the edge of the foot against this guide.
[you are essentially making a table saw "inside out" -- letting the
wood be fixed while the saw moves along it -- with the fence attached
to the wood instead of the saw!]
You will eventually get to a point where the guide needs to be positioned
*past* the edge of the board (i.e., when the remaining board width is
less than the desired width of the strip plus the distance from blade to
edge of shoe).
At this point, place a second board alongside the first and secure
both to your worksurface (i.e., make the original board seem to be
wider by the addition of this adjacent board).
Depending on the width of the strips, you may find it easier to just
buy lumber in that desired width!
[Note that you can often harvest thin strips of wood from things
like prefab "latticework"]
Time to buy at least a cheap table saw . OR , if you have a router , rout a
shallow cutout in some plywood/mdf/particle board that will fit your
skilsaw's bottom plate . Mount said skilsaw upside down in said recess .
You now have a "table saw" , use clamps and a guide board adjusted as
needed for width .
drill 2 holes in the foot plate of your skill saw and screw a strip to
your skill saw the right distance from the blade to act as a fence.
Make the board nice and long and run the boards through against that
fence.Could even use one of your boards n as the fence if you have a
spare or iff 2 screw holes will not be a problem.
No, just remove the screws, shidt the board hald an inch lenthwize,
and in to the next requires position, and refasten with the screwas in
the same holes in the saw. For cripes sake, it's NOT ROCKET SCIENCE.
And nor are mine. 2 holes in the sole plate of a saw never hurt the
saw, and they make the saw a whole lot more usefull
That depemds on the width of the board and the strips required You
start with a 6 inch nominal board (5 1/2") board. You need to cut it
into 8 peices. That's 6 cuts that's 3/4" wasted in cuts, leaving each
strip just a shade under 0.6". How are you going to cut that board
with a straight edge clamped to the board? Or try cuttimg cedar
strips for a canoe out of 1X10 rough resawn lumber from an old hydro
pole- 16 or 18 feet long. My method works. Not sure yours will. I can
clamp the handle of mine into a workmate and use it like a table saw.
And my solution does not preclude cutting the plywood using a
straight-edge. In fact I also have an adapter - can't remember the
name of it right off hand - that makes my circular saw into a
track-saw for cutting panels. An aluminum track about 10 feet long is
screwed to an 8 foot X 2 foot shunk of 1 inch baltic birch Sheet of
plywood buts to the track, "T" carriage slides in the track carrying
the saw across the sheet, cutting it to whatever dimension you choose
and can cur the panel in half the short dimension as well. I can
re-adjust to whatever dimension I want in seconds - guaranteed square
every time. I can use it with a router instead of the saw too - to
sloy a panel to look like boards / bead-board panel, or even
slot-boards. Instead of the somewhat dodgy clamps to hold the saw to
the carriage, I can bolt it precisely in place using those 2 screw
holes in the sole plate.
On 6/8/2016 7:31 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Mark 0.6" from edge of board. Align with blade (of WHATEVER type of saw
you are using!). Lay guide against side of shoe. Clamp. Cut.
When the width of the board is no longer sufficient to *support* the
shoe and the guide, lay another board alongside -- anything that has
the same *thickness* as the first board.
And my solution doesn't preclude putting the 6" board on a bandsaw and
cutting it there, either!
Or, for scoring drywall.
Or, 80 lb roofing felt.
Which is not the method I responded too. I was responding to clamping
the guide to the board. Clamping or screwing the guide to the plate
is in essence the same method, but clamps dlip. Clamps get in the way.
Clamps get knocked off. Screws hold tight, stay out of the way, and
will never slip.
If you have a bandsaw the whole situation changes.
Make a guide for the Skilsaw on bench or good set of 'horses. Set a
guide at proper distance from edge for first cut and fasten it down.
Use fence on its face to run the baseplate against; after the first cut
use spacer of proper width to position board to next cut. The spacers
don't need to be full length so can be made by hand easily enough.
Or, an inexpensive but quite serviceable jobsite contractors TS isn't
much outlay at one of the box stores, actually, and while I've never
used one of theirs, some of the _very_ inexpensive HF variety get decent
reviews for occasional use.
As most others have said, clamp a straight edge to the piece to be cut to
act as a fence for your Skilsaw. Problem is, the foot of the saw is large
relative to the width of the work. Assuming your boards are all the same
thickness, butt them edge to edge and clamp the lot down. You now have a
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