HI...I want to run a temporary outlet to my garage while it's under
construction. I have 10/2 wire ran from the house to the garage in
Can I simply add a plug-in to the end that is inside the house and
plug it directly into an outlet in my basement? The other end I will
tie into a temporary outlet in my garage. I just want it for lighting
and maybe the occasional power tool - but mostly lighting. The house
is a 200 amp service if that matters.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 07:04:22 -0800 (PST), email@example.com wrote:
Course it should work and can be safe. The problem is that
"temporary" setups are used as if they are permanent. A better idea
is to run a heavy duty extension to the garage for the work day,
disconnecting it and storing it away at the end of the day. An
extension cord should not be a permanent hookup, yet many homes have
this arrangement! If you have a lamp plugged into an extension cord,
an electrical outlet should be installed near the lamp and extension
cord removed. An electrical outlet without a cover plate is a hazard
and out of code, whether there is current or not. Practicing safety
is very inexpensive insurance.
I totally agree. Safety is a concern. The outlet in the garage will
be affixed to a stud and a plate will be over the box. The outlet is
remaining in place forever. My garage is 410 feet away from my house.
When I am finished the shed and ready to get it all tied in to the
electrical box, I then just have to remove the plug from the end of
the wire in the house and have a n electrician tie it into the panel
box for me.
Any special type of plug required, or can a basic Heavy-duty male plug
such as the Nema 5-15P do?
On 1/27/2009 7:29 AM firstname.lastname@example.org spake thus:
That *should* do, but you ought to be aware of capacity limitations.
10-gauge wire will safely handle up to 20 amps (at 120 volts), but the
plug may not, nor the outlet. So long as you limit your loads on the
outlets to about 15 amps, you should be fine.
Speaking of limits, what's the breaker size on the circuit you're
planning on plugging your "extension cord" into? If it's 15 amps, that's
Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least
I'd prefer to make the connection to a (new) breaker in the box in the
basement rather than the wall outlet, but there's no reason the latter
wouldn't work. And, despite phisherman's concern, the 10/2 is far
heavier than any extension cord even construction is likely to be and
being underground and connected to the outlet in the garage much less
prone to both damage as well as trip hazards, etc., not to mention
simply the pita of stringing it out and putting it up. That's just too
silly to even consider...
The only real rub in using the outlet I see is twofold -- first, what
else is on the circuit as it is likely only a 15A circuit so you might
end up w/ annoying circuit trips if you're using something heavy in the
shop and the washer or some other load in the house is on at the same
time. Secondly, you'll have to find a standard plug w/ sufficient
clearance on lugs for the 10 ga wire to make it up.
Since this is going to be a feeder, I'd just go ahead and hook it up now
and be done w/ it.
You _did_ pull UF-rated cable, right??? :)
Assuming you have 10/2 G, you cannot install a male plug on it because a
male plug is not designed to be installed on it. Run the cable into your
panel and connect it to a 20 amp dedicated circuit breaker. At the garage
run the cable into a junction box and pigtail your outlet and whatever using
#12 wire, and be sure to use GFCI protection at the garage
If the box carrying the receptacle is not in a finished wall, you can
open the box and make the connection there. You should install a
junction box, and receptacle in the garage, and make it a permanent
connection. Make sure to use a GFCI in the garage.
Also 400 ft is pushing the voltage drop limits. Good thing you are
using # 10. That was a smart move.
I agree it is all good advice. If an electrical inspector is likely the
advice is especially good. If I wanted to kludge the connection I could
figure how to connect the 10/2 to a plug.
But I would repeat - "use GFCI protection at the garage."
While a grounding electrode is not required, with the building 400 feet
from the house I would recommend one - typically 1 or 2 ground rods.
Plus the earth at 2 points is not necessarily the same potential. And
ground fault currents (which must return to the house as John said, to
get to the service neutral) can put the "ground" at the garage at a
rather different potential than the earth at the garage. IMHO it would
be good to connect the rebar or mesh in the garage floor to the garage
"ground". It is done in livestock buildings and swimming pools.
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