: >I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out
: > but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the
: > is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
: > or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with
: > end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install
: > plastic insulator as a second step.
: It is best not to "tighten the hell out of them" - especially
when one or
: more of the wires is stranded, or small guage, as they may be
: twisted off.
: Twist nut firmly, yes, but ensure a low resistance connection
: pre-twisting wires with a pair of side-cutting pliers. The
: insulates the connection, and provides moderated pressure to
keep the twist
: together. For secure connections, I sometimes strip the ends,
: the bare wire, align the ends, then use 1" high qual. elec.
tape to wrap
: just below the stripped part, to keep the wire ends aligned,
: suspend the fixture. Then do your wire twist, so that it tapers
to the end,
: and use the wire spring (pricier) insert type wire nuts . Once
the nut is
: tightened, I wrap the nut in a bit of tape in the direction
: tension on the nut, and finish wrapping its end around the
: itself, as an anchor. I know this sounds compulsive, but I can
do it pretty
: quickly, and it makes a very neat and tidy looking job. As I
: big advantage of pre-taping before applying the nut is that you
: wall fixtures this way, so that twisting can be done at your
: two hands in play.
Yeah, you're right: the hell with the manufacturer's
recommendations on the bvest way to do it for that particular
brand of type of wirenut you're using. They're all the same, so
there's only one way to it; your way. Right.