Contractor quotes do not cease to amuse me. I have had several quotes for installing a liner in my chimney and connecting it to a fireplace insert. I provide both. Each contractor described it as a piece of cake: "We attach it at the top of the chimney, cap it, seal it, drop it down and then connect it at the bottom." So how much is it going to cost me? The quotes ranged from $950-$1800.
I've been calling professional chimney repairers and stone guys. So, obviously, these guys don't want the job. Who else can reliably do this kind of job? Obviously, I want someone insured and bonded.
I think you have your answer. Much like how much is this item worth? Sell it on ebay, and find out.
But, since you can post here I reckon you are considering the job yourself, and why not. The liner comes in 3' sections, you fasten them together and drop them down.
Now, I've never done this --- so --- you don't necessarily have to take my advice.
Here are the questions that you'd like to know if you do it yourself:
Is there something supporting the liner in the middle where you can't get to?
Where does the liner have to end up - exactly - for you to install the insert.
And of course the easy ones like what do you fasten the tubes with, do you need to sweep chimney first, how do you cap it, etc.
Well, I wasn't much help. But, I didn't hurt much either, did I?
Not sure exactly what is wanted here. By saying these guys don't want the job, are you implying that because you got a range of quotes for $950 to $1800 that even the lowest is unreasonable? Do you know what the cost of the actual liner is?
Depends on what kind of liner it is. There is the ceramic liner that is cemented to the inside of the chimney. The new ones are just an insulated pipe they stick down the chimney and connect directly to the appliance. They usually have a metal cap vent sticking out of the top of the chimney. That may be the price difference.
*Those pesky contractors. We all know that it only takes ten minutes on TV to install that stuff yet they still try and nail us with wages someone could live on and their stupid overhead and cost of doing business. They should take into consideration that there will be no warranty since you will be furnishing the material.
There was another thread here about a kid who worked for $5.00 per hour. See if you can get a hold of him. Another thought is to go to the street corner in your town where the "Day laborers" hang out and pick up a few to do the job.
This coming from the guy that tried to tell us over and over that hot water doesn't evaporate more readily than cold water. Get your GED yet, Bubba?
and when you try what I told you, you just might begin to get a clue. Its not going to evaporate any better with hot water. Hell, by the time your so called hot water hits the distribution tray at the top of your humidifier its already cooled down to nothing. Oh thats right. You're one of those freaking mindless EE that thinks they know everything about everything but cant even figure out why their furnace doesnt work until one of those guys that needs a (how did you put it?) "gets a GED", comes over and charges them $100 to change their dirty filter. You probably put pieces of copper in your outdoor disconnect for your air conditioner too thinking you'll save money. Heres a quarter, trader. Go buy a vowel. Bubba
So, you want to continue to curse the darkness instead of learning. I think someone already provided you with what Aprilaire, widely recognized as one of the best humidifier manufacturers has to say. But, here it is from their Q/A section again for you:
"Should our humidifier be connected with hot or cold water?"
All of our flow-through units can be connected to hot or cold water. Hot water increases the evaporative capacity of your humidifer, provides more humidity to the home and offers more flexibility in the operation of the humidifier. Some of our units can use hot air and cold water. All humidifiers need some source of heat for evaporation to take place whether it is hot water or hot air. We would recommend that if our power units are installed on the return ductwork, that they be connected to hot water, as this is their only heat source. Heat pumps and large capacity installations need hot water. Heat pumps are not hot enough for evaporation and some larger installations need maximum capacity so they will need to use both hot air and hot water. The Model 400 should be connected to cold water due to the wicking Water Panel as it cannot be guaranteed that the water will stay hot while waiting for the next heat call on the Water Panel. With any drain-though Aprilaire Humidifier connected to hot water, the heat in the water is used in the evaporation process and the water coming out of the drain will be cold to the touch."
Now, I'm sure you'll smear Aprilaire with some choice cuss words too. And probably claim they have some ulterior motive. But the facts speak for themselves. Aprilaire clearly states that using hot water, you get more evaporation.
Your statement that the hot water has already cooled down to nothing by the time it hits the top of the distribution tray is quite laughable. The water drops about 1/2 inch from where it enters to the top of the tray. Anyone with a pulse should know that the water isn't going to cool very much at all in that short distance and time.
Heh, Bubba, didn't you ever hear the line about not bringing a knife to a gun fight? Unable to argue simple physics which you don't understand, you're reduced to sneering in contempt at those that have chosen to educate themselves.
No trader, your problem is you believe all the shit you read. Again, for the millionth time, TRY it yourself. You'll find that using hot water does next to nothing in adding moisture. How hard is it for you to hook up two saddle valves, one on the hot, the other on the cold. Do some temp measurements and catch the excess water from the drain. How freaking hard is that? Your stupid simplicity bores me. Go read another bedtime story. I guess you really belive the three little bears story was true too? Bubba
You needn't go on and on... One 'I'm sorry' (or words to that effect) was sufficient. Heck, I don't even think your faux pas even merits an act of contrition! Glad to have you back amongst the civil.
Way ahead of you Bubba. I am going to run a little experiment to measure the difference. Won't require 2 saddle valves either. I'm just going to wait for a convenient time, then measure first as is with hot water running into the humidifier. Then I'm going to either turn off the water heater before a trip or otherwise deplete the hot water by turning off the heater and then doing laundry, running dishwasher, etc. I'll simply measure the flow rate of the drain water with hot vs cold.
That's the benefit of being smart, you don't have to re-plumb anything. Maybe you're right Bubba and Aprilaire and every other poster and the laws of physics are wrong. But I'll bet not :)
Thank You, That's all I ask. You will be suprised of your findings. I did it and it was very very very little added moisture. Not even worth mentioning and making the water heater run that much more. Id rather run more cold water through it than fuel. By the way, I really didnt re-plumb anything per say. A simple, second, self piercing saddle valve and move the 1/4 line over to the other line. Took about 2 mins and I have all the parts handy in my service van. That way Im not doing laundry or dishes with cold water. Have a nice day. Bubba
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