Whirlpool oven bake element problem

[Fred Parks]

I've got a 1988 model RS6100XKN built-in with a bake element that isn't heating up. The broiler element and everything else works OK. I figured this would just be a simple element swap, but it tested out at 22 ohms on my VOM. I was expecting no continuity at all; from what I've been able to find the

22 may be in a normal range, maybe a bit lower than what I would have expected. So then I hooked up the VOM, set for voltage, to the terminals at the back of the oven. Powered up, I show 34V with the selector set on Bake, moving up to 45V when I rotate the temperature selector to any given setting. Questions: shouldn't I be getting a full 220v on this circuit, and if so, why would it be so low? I didn't test the broiler voltage but it gets plenty hot. Also, I had the VOM set for AC voltage, as I assume that there isn't a conversion to DC. Sorry if that sounds dumb, but I want to be sure I'm on the right track. Set me right if I'm not. Any and all help/comments on this is much appreciated.

Fred

[Dave Harnish]

Hi Fred,

20 - 22 ohms is OK, and you're right to test for 240VAC. There's no rectification here, it's just plain vanilla 60 hz AC. And that's the fastest way to check the element, being careful, of course, to keep test terminals away from the cabinet (and yourself!). 240V to element/no heat = open element. No 240V to element = look elsewhere, usually burnt wire (or on some ranges, the analog clock set to 'off')

If the oven indicator light's coming on, the clock's prob OK; but some of these can get set to 'off' rather than 'manual' if you've no separate 'time bake' setting on the selector switch. Used to be a common problem on the GM Frigidaires. It was very easy to switch them when cleaning the stove.

I suspect a burnt terminal, possibly at the broil element's (usually shared) connection. Probably not what you want to hear, but I'd pull it out far enough to remove the back cover and check the wiring.

I don't appear to have a diagram for your model, but there should be one on the range. Sometimes on the back, and once in a while inside the control panel (argh!).

But you'll often see the problem once you pull the back and look around. Just power it down first. This article from my newsletter may be of some help:

Hope this is of some help.

God bless,

Dave Harnish Dave's Repair Service New Albany, PA

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