What stops the water?

How much is some, and how long must so much stand? -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman
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Well, that's a complicated question. It will depend on lots of things, like: * Brand * Sanded/unsanded * Plain/latex-modified * Vertical/horizontal installation * Joint width * Tile type -- porous/nonporous * Installation quality -- pro/talented amateur/hopeless hack (cracks, ya know) * Sealed/unsealed

Grout is just a fancy form of concrete. Have you ever been to Boulder Dam? Water seeps through it. If water can get through hundreds of feet of concrete, I assume it can get through 1/4" of grout.

I assume all concrete products are porous, and I apply sealers.

Reply to
SteveBell

Well, whatever you do, do not consider any differences of pressure.

Have you checked with any tiled pool owners? -----

gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

"SteveBell" wrote in news:gkjskq$k8i$1 @reader.motzarella.org:

Steve: I do a lot of shit on foreclosed houses I actually live in. Nothing for others for $. You mean people actually call a repair person to fix 6 little tiles??? So trivial! They can't figure out how to do this? Or maybe this is someone who physically cannot do these things.

Reply to
Red Green

This case is an elderly couple--they're not capable of doing this stuff.

Some people don't know what to do and want me to teach them. Last week I ran a dryer exhaust vent for a young attorney who had just bought an older house. He wanted me to show him how to do it. He gave me a three hundred percent tip. :-0

The usual cases are people who are intimidated, don't have time, or don't want to be bothered. I just painted a bunch of inside doors for a guy. He pays me $40 and hour while he earns more than that doing whatever he does.

Reply to
SteveBell

About 25 years ago when the mortar base of my bathroom floor (not the shower, like you described) started to go bad, I fixed it like this:

Too poor at the time to replace the entire floor, I squared off the section where the tiles were popping and cleaned out the mortar back to where it was solid - about 12" x 18". I then piled up various thicknesses of 1 x material and plywood until I matched the height of the surrounding tile and screwed it to the subfloor.

Did you know that bathroom rugs are bigger than 12" x 18"? ;-)

When I finally got around to renovating the bathroom I discovered that the joist spacing where the tiles were popping was 20" OC while the rest of the floor was 16" OC. This also happened to be right in front of the sink. So whoever framed the room put the least amount of support under the area that probably needed the most.

I added an extra joist before replacing the subfloor and retiling.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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