What size wiring for Central A/C compressor?

I've had hard start kits break the connecting rod on reciprocating compressors. You can tell by the sound made by the compressor which sounds like an electric blower motor running without a belt. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas
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+about5

If the inspectors in this area are this bad, they're costing a lot of money over time for no reason (other than perhaps kickbacks from the local distributors???)

When first in TN years ago there was an incompetent so widely known that it was a standing joke. The locals put up w/ it and just bought innumerable pints of Old Turkey (from which you can imagine the joke).

I finally got fed up enough and being new to the area was willing to be the one who pulled his plug by documenting it and making the complaint. In the end, was _much_ "more better" all around...

Reply to
dpb

I replaced my 3-ton a/c unit after its 12-year old predecessor croaked as a result of Hurricane Yikes*. The chap who replaced it said I could also swap out the 40-amp breaker with a 30-amp one inasmuch as more modern units, mine included, were more efficient and drew less power. Makes sense since the original a/c unit was a builder model from the 1960's. The compressor unit, no doubt, had been replaced, maybe more than once, before I bought the house. But nobody every fiddled with changing the circuit breaker.

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  • The fellow who did the work is a Guatamalan off-the-books a/c technician. Evidently he is part of a co-national underground network of repair people in that he knew a guy who obtains and reconditions a/c units, some from insurance companies after house fires. Anyway, the unit he chose was a two-year old Trane, and the unit has been working swell for the past four years. The whole business, compressor unit, installation, vacuuming, and recharge cost 0.

One point is this: If you can find ONE immigrant tradesman, you've got access, probably, to lots of others (roofers, sewer replacement, concrete work, etc.). No, they're not bonded, insured, and so forth, but the proof is in the pudding. If the job works, you're good. Besides, I know where Lewis, the guy who did the work, lives - next door to my son - and Lewis knows I have a gun.

Feel free to disagree, but this technique works for me.

Reply to
HeyBub

Whatever works. I try to avoid government involvement in business whenever I can because it tends to increase the cost of everything but at the same time I'll do quality work and not slipshod crap which gives folks a reason to complain to a government puke. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

What about the outside disconnect? It is just simply a "pull-out" type disconnect, no fuses, just solid copper buss bars. I don't see any rating for it. How do I know it's rating? Or are all these type of disconnects just a standard rating?

Reply to
Mikepier

I personally don't like the pull out disconnects because they can corrode from mishandling and pranksters can make off with the pull out. I use the Square D dummy breaker in a rain proof box. It looks like a standard Square D QO breaker but with no over current protection and a real circuit breaker will actually snap-in in its place. ^_^

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Typically 60a but there is no over current protection, as you note. That is just what the contacts will handle,

It is always best to trip the breaker before you pull the disconnect. (arc flash) The disconnect is just for the safety of the workman so he is sure he won't get killed if someone turns the breaker back on.

Reply to
gfretwell

As for pranksters, my disconnect has a a padlock, the key to which is kept in the main circuit-breaker box (which also has a padlock).

Reply to
HeyBub

Trust no one. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

I trust YOU -- To give what you believe to be the straight skinney on this newsgroup.

Who know, if we ever met in person, I might even loan you a tool...

Reply to
HeyBub

I can appreciate that. I remember a famous man saying something to the effect, "Experience is a fool's best teacher." Believe me, I can admit to being a fool on more than one occasion but I survived it and learned from it. Years ago, I trained in martial arts and got knocked on my butt numerous times but I learned from it to the point that my instructors couldn't get through my coverup and I could block kicks and punches. Of course now, a couple of five year old kids could take me. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Ok ,guys. Now something just came up . I know we are up to 51 posts for this thread already, and I was not sure whether to continue this one, or start a new one, but anyway:

My friend had an idea if he had gotten a generator one day, he can utilize the A/C disconnect panel outside to backfeed into the main panel. Of course he would shut off the main breaker and pull the A/C disconnect when he did this.

I can put an outdoor twistlock outlet next to the A/C disconnect panel, and put a short nipple between them an connect the wiring.

But I cannot do this with the existing 10 guage wire since it is the old 10/2 stuff with a small ground on it. I would need to run an 8/3 with gnd ( 2 phases plus neutral).

I know this is not the right way to backfeed a panel, but regardless, does it make sense now to run the 8/3 ?

Reply to
Mikepier

I'd leave the AC wire alone, and wire a power inlet. You'd be wise to make some kind of transfer switch to make it idiot resistant. During a high stress power cut, it's easy enough to forget a step or two in the procedure.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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I know this is not the right way to backfeed a panel, but regardless, does it make sense now to run the 8/3 ?

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

If you know it's not the right way, then why are you proposing to do it? Why take an AC circuit that is 100% legal nd safe as it is and turn it into something to be used as a dangerous code violation? If he wants a generator connection, install an inlet outside and run it to a proper interlock device installed on the main panel. If the panel maker doesn't have one, then try:

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Reply to
trader4

Hay bailing sounds great and of course he will never forget, be sick, not there and someone else needs to do it or whatever.

What you described is simply hay bailing instead of using conventional common methods.

Reply to
George

That is an excellent invention. I did not even know those interlocks existed. A little pricey at $150, but I'll definately consider it. The only issue is finding space in the main panel for an extra double pole breaker for the generator, but I can use some twins here and there on lighting circuits to to free it up.

Reply to
Mikepier

The interlock kit trader4 showed you is the least expensive "safe" way to do it but before that product was available I used a double throw safety switch and sub panel or put it between the lighting panel if it was separate from the a main panel with the heavy loads. Of course you run a separate line outdoors to your portable genset and depending on its capacity you will have to choose which loads to turn off/on as needed. ^_^

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

So that double throw switch has to be put between the main panel and subpanel, (where the subpanel would have the essential circuits in them to run off generator) , right?

Reply to
Mikepier

Exactly. Sometimes there is a separate lighting panel which will have loads like wall outlets, furnace blower, kitchen, bathroom, etc with the heavy loads in an outdoor breaker box below the power meter and a large breaker feeding the indoor panel. Sometimes a separate panel with the heavy loads could be indoors next to the lighting panel. It depends on your setup but if there is only one main panel that is not the split variety (another variation) you can get a sub-panel which will use the same type breakers you have so you save money on breakers. I had my local inspector tell me it was OK the use the old panel as a junction box to splice your circuits for the sub-panel if the wires/cables were too short to move over to the sub panel. Don't forget the knock out blank inserts to fill in the openings for the removed breakers. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Lets's go one step further. By any chance do they make double throw circuit breakerss? So if one wants to wire up just the essential circuits ( heat, light, etc), there would be 2 terminals on the individual breaker: one for normal power and one for generator. That way you just flip the breaker and it will switch to the generator side.without having to worry about shutting off the main.

Reply to
Mikepier

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