What is the logic of banging DOWN on a crankshaft to remove a flywheel?

[James H.]

I thank everyone for their help but let's not lead the next guy astray please.

In addition to the instructions belatedly found in the Sears and Briggs & Stratton PDFs previously listed, in response to this post, I further cleaned and chalked the flywheel and posted a picture of it here: Direct link:

link: player: Stamped right on the Briggs & Stratton flywheel are the embossed words: "TO REMOVE, USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES", with arrows pointing to the two holes.

If you don't believe me, please see the photo below (and please let's all agree that the right way to remove THIS flywheel is to tap the holes and pull with the Briggs & Stratton flywheel puller P/N: BS 19069.

Thanks again for all the wonderful help!

[James H.]

Hi Harry,

It's true I couldn't do it, but PLEASE LOOK at the picture here! (If not for yourself, then for the sake of the next guy that gets the advice to whack the crankshaft.)

Notice, once the flywheel is cleaned and chalked, it clearly has embossed on the face "TO REMOVE, USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES". It has two big arrows pointing to those untapped wheel puller holes.

Pictures here:

Very many web pages, it turns out, state to tap the holes and use a wheel puller that fits into the holes. Even the Briggs and Stratton web sites and Sears sells the wheel puller that fits into these holes (once tapped).

So all I'm saying, for the next guy, not for me, is:

1. DO NOT bang and pry this type of Briggs & Stratton flywheel
2. The correct approach is to tape two 1/4 x 20 holes & use the Briggs & Stratton or Sears flywheel puller, part number BS 19069.

I thank everyone, yes everyone. Especially since I have NEVER before worked on a lawnmower so I was very clumsy and broke a lot of things. But let's all learn so as not to lead the next guy astray. The way to remove THIS flywheel is not to bang on the crankshaft but to more gently lift up from the pre-drilled un-tapped holes.

[snotty]

If you applied for a job at pretty much any small engine shop - and they asked you how to remove the flywheel on a lawnmower engine, - and you told them you would use a flywheel puller, I PROMISE you would not be hired.

They would instantly know you had no experience or expertise working on small engines.

[James H.]

I'm sorry. That's a typing mistake made in haste.

I agree. Nobody suggests banging on the delicate flywheel.

MANY people suggested the following:

- protect the top of the crankshaft

- pry up on the flywheel from below

- bang down on the crankshaft

So I tried that, and failed miserably (damaging more than I fixed mainly because this is the FIRST lawnmower I've ever worked on).

Much to my chagrin, belatedly I find out, embossed on the flywheel, are the words "TO REMOVE, USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES" with two big arrows pointing to the untapped wheel puller holes.

Direct link:

link: Both the Briggs & Stratton web site and Sears sells the wheel puller that fits those holes (1/4 x 20) as part number BS 19069.

Now I know so much more, thanks to all you guys. I just want the next guy to not bang on the Briggs & Stratton crankshaft when trying to remove their lawnmower flywheel.

Thanks everyone!

[James H.]

Thanks Steve Barker, Bob F, and Bob Vila for the information.

As can be seen from the pictures published, the videos, the PDFs, and the tools sold, there are two main ways to remove the flywheel from a Briggs and Sratton lawnmower.

For the expert (you guys), the bang-on-the-crankshaft method must surely work; but for me, admittedly a novice at working on lawnmower engines, the documented method to use a flywheel puller is the way to go.

As can be seen from the posted pictures, they pry-and-bang method only netted me a broken intake manifold and the need to extract a broken screw; whereas the tap-and-pull flywheel puller method easily removed the flywheel sans damage.

Let's all agree there are two ways, and the "proper" way is documented right on the flywheel in raised letters (which requires tapping the holes); but let's also agree that most of you are successful with judicious use of the pry-and-bang method which I personally do not recommend for anyone who has not worked on a lawnmower before.

Thanks all for your help. I'm waiting for the parts to arrive so I can replace the blade, the manifold, the gasket, and the flywheel key.

Thanks!!!!!!!! Jim

Pictures of the flywheel lettering:

[salty]

The next guy who asks how to remove the flywheel on a lawnmower engine will be told to pry up on the flywheel while banging on a double nutted crank end. He will be further advised not to let YOU help in any way.

[Jeff The Drunk]

[James H.]

Hi Bob F,

I'm sorry. I didn't realize that. My mistake.

I think we can all agree there are two ways to remove a flywheel:

1. Pry and bang
2. Tap and pull

The advice to pry and bang, for someone like me (I always said this was my very first lawnmower engine), is, let's just say, "problematic". :)

In my case, using that method cost me a broken intake manifold and bolt, and time, and money ... which would have been better spent doing it the right way (i.e., the documented method, documented right on the flywheel, unbeknownst to me!). :)

So, I strongly recommend that people new to lawnmowers use the proper approach, which is to tap the two holes and pull with a flywheel puller (I used a harmonic balancer puller available at any auto parts store).

In the end, it would have been less time & money had I done the job properly. Too bad I didn't notice, in all the dirt and grime, the words clearly stamped (now that it's clean) on the flywheel (see the pictures posted at

TO REMOVE (flywheel), USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES

[salty]

I sure hope you ordered a new flywheel. That one is now dangerous to use. Seriously. Someone could be killed.

[Brent]

I think the OPs point is there is a right way and there's the wrong way and that everyone does it the wrong way for his type of B&S engine because it's faster, easier, and cheaper than doing it the right way.

Both ways work.

[Jeff The Drunk]

As far as I'm concerned the youtube vid illustrates the right way. First one I removed back in th 70's was under the instruction of a Briggs/Kohler/Tecumseh/Lawnboy authorized repairman. I purchased threaded jigs for different size crank ends designed solely as a aremoval tool to protect the thread end of the crank. I've repaired dozens of bent and sheared crank keys as a hobbyist small engine repairman for profit and as favors for family and friends and not once did it take me more than a rap or two to loosen the flywheel. And I never did any damage. I however don't recommend the average Joe to undertake the job in the first place as evidenced by this James H unfortunate experience.

[Ron]

I disagree with this. Some things are built with marks or pilot holes so the technician knows where to drill for maintenance.

A perfect example are the 3 dimples that Ford puts in their doors so the tech will know where to drill the holes to gain access to the three screws that holds the power window motor in place.

[Ron]

James, the bottom line is, people have used the "hit with hammer and pry" method for years w/o doing any damage to whatever they are working on.

I used that method to remove everything from AC compressor clutch/ pulley assembles, to wiper blade arms on some GM cars that are have Loctite on the shafts they are bolted on to.

[Harry K]

Yep, if you don't count the time to loosen the nut and spin it out far enough :)

Harry K

[Harry K]

You are 'assuming something not in evidence'. That they say to use a puller in that stamping does _not_ say 'not to use the traditional pry/ hammer method'. I gaurantee you that if you were to take that mower to a shop and point out the instructions they would laugh and when you turned you back there would be a thump and the flywheel would be off.

Harry K

[Harry K]

:

Please drop the "move it doen 1/8" inch. I have already told you at least twice that the person who said that was in error. The true distance is a few thousandths.

Harry K

[Bob F]

There's an art to knowing what forces you can apply where on mechanical devices. You have just learned a bit of that art. I started over 50 years ago. The next time, you will know better. It might not be a flywheel, but you will think about what can be damaged a little more carefully, and hopefully avoid damage. Sometimes learning is harder than other times.

[Bob F]

Is that like the custard tin lid that I licked the custard off of to find the lettering "Do not lick lid"?

[Larry W]

I suppose if the OP had used the puller the 1st time and someohow broken the flywheel (it can and does happen with a puller) he would now be maintaining how using a puller is "not correct for my Brigss and Stratton" engine.

[Larry W]

Oh for God's sake! Why not just recommend he buy a whole new mower already!