One more factor.... efficiency...
The lighting goes down fast,... the heat output ("light" we can't see) goes up fast ...
Hint: Incandescents, at lower voltage are great in seasons where we would like more heat that light..... In the summer... not so much...
Not sure what glass thickness weight has to do with anything. I have never broken a bulb while installing it and never heard of fluorescent lamp glass overheating and failing. If anything modern fluorescent lamps last longer especially when using electronic ballasts.
Not really, if you burn an incandescent lamp below its design voltage you will see the color shifts to yellow because the filament is much less hotter and much less efficient as an illumination source but it also last for a lot longer.
Many people only care about price and not quality so that is what manufacturers make. If people expect CFLs to be 3/$1 at the big box mart what quality do you think they will have?
Joe Mastroianni wrote in news:kdu832$c6f$1@dont- email.me:
Just replaced a cfl(18Watt,220Volt, Philips). Cause:bulging capacitor and brown burned plastic/electronics. Life: around .5 to 2 years. It is never a burned-out tube, always carbonized electronics. The left-over tubes are fun to play around with, you can light them with the static charge on the front of old tv-s.
The rule of thumb I've always seen is that the filament life goes at about the 12th power of the voltage, which agrees with your number (5% almost doubles life).
No, heat goes down, too, just not as fast as the light output.
Whenever you leave home at night or go to sleep, little leprachauns come around and turn on the lights.
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