That is an extreme length for ducting a dryer.
As for easier to work with? I see very little difference between the
galv. metal and pvc. One needs a hacksaw to cut it with the other
tinsnips. One uses glue, the other just slips together. Haven't
checked prices recently but at a guess I suspect galv would be cheaper.
As for the 'combustibility' warnings. I don't think it would really be
in play minus a real fire to begin with. There is softening with heat
While PVC tubing looks like it would be ideal for dryer venting being
rigid and perfectly smooth, numerous technicians report that some sort
of static effect seems to take place during use which causes lint to
adhere to it, eventually leading to blockages. It may be best to avoid
this material for this application if you can use rigid metal ducting
Good point. So one should insulate the dryer vent pipe, irrespective of the
Hmm. If you do that, who's to know what's under the insulation?
Insulating the vent pipe would make the technique of de-linting using a
propane torch easier too.
Thanks for the suggestion.
| Any reason one can't use 4" PVC sewer pipe for dryer exhaust piping?
it is illegal
| I've got to go UP 8 feet (which will be metal), then horizontally
| to get to a soffit. For the 20' run I'm considering the sewer pipe
| kind with holes) because it's easier to work with.
this is too long of a run for a dryer vent
| Goblin roofers didn't replace the roof vent when they put in a new
| didn't notice their failure for a LONG time, and now I'm endeavoring
| correct the problem. I figure a soffit vent is going to be easier than
| dealing with a retrofitted roof vent.
soffit vents for dryers suck
the lint gets all over the house and sometimes come in the house through
an open window.
| Suggestions welcome.
use metal 4 inch ducting with the least amount of elbows and no flexible
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