Thanks for your observation Jim, Maybe a high quality lubricant like Loctite copper base Anti sieze compound would work even better on YOUR light sockets but I would advise against it.
Thanks for your observation Jim, Maybe a high quality lubricant like Loctite copper base Anti sieze compound would work even better on YOUR light sockets but I would advise against it.
Usually it is just 3 short bursts for a shot. A burst being just enought get a spray -- maybe 1/4 seconds each.
You're sliding the potatos in like a muzzleloader, aren't you?
I've never encountered any truly conductive greases yet, though no doubt they can be made.
I just stuck one ohmmeter probe down into the contents of my can of Thomas & Betts "Koper-Shield" and touched the other probe to the metal can. There was no discernable conductivity, even though the grease has a distinctly copper color.
I think those kinds of "conductive greases" are loaded with finely divided metal particles which become "conductors" when they are compressed between two metal parts and the non conducting grease squirts out.
I've used Koper-Shield on bayonet base automobile lamp bulbs for years without any undue effects, but I've never applied it to a line voltage bulb's base, nor do I think I'd try it.
Jeff
Aqua Net is best for this.
Aw, come on! They're just saying that to protect themselves from nusiance lawsuits. No big deal.
Aquanet has killed at least one woman who was stupid enough to ignore the "Do not puncture or incinerate" warning on the spray can:
Jeff
The MSDS, which is NOT a marketing tool confirms that WD-40 rates a "level 4" Severe flammability rating. Nothing whatsoever to do with lawyers.
-- Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable.
--
-- It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
--
-- As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane.
My can of WD-40 says "Combustible' on the front and Do not use near heat, fire or flames on the back. Of course, my can doesn't contain any propellent either. So I'm guessing your EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE is due to the propellent.
Save yourself some money - Buy WD-40 in the gallon can (about $12):
$20 spent on bulk WD-40 and a couple spray bottles will last you a lot longer than $20 spent on WD-40 in the standard spray cans.
Except that a regular aerosol can of WD40 lasts me about 15-20 years!
CWM
Well, yeah. Isn't compression a necessary part of the equation?
BTW, Dixie cups make perfect blanks for a 2" PVC barrel. Sometimes, you just want to make noise to raise the dead.
Proof?
What's the flash point?
What brand?
Withe apologye toe Dane Quaylee whoe putse ane extrae lettere one potatoe.
I don't really compress it. I slide it in first. It does create one heck of a seal, though. But I've never made french fries with it. The spud goes out in one piece. I got "the long way" on the potato so it's a good, solid hunk of flying flesh.
I've often thought about putting some sort of groove in the barrel so I can get some rotation on it. they it would REALLY fly.
There was a fad for a while of lighting the spray from hair spray. In college I somehow ended up with a used can of hairspray and I tried it. It was sort of scary.
Compression's easy. Taper the inside end of the barrel slightly with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper, so it punches out the spud correspondingly oversize.
Range would be the same, accuracy would be better.
I've seen rifled PVC barrels sold online for just this purpose. Not cheap, though. I wonder if you couldn't glue in a loose spiral-wound piece of wire pulled from a bit of Romex for the same effect. Hope it stays in after the third shot ;-)
Could you cut fins from cardboard and install them into the spud at a slight helical pitch to add spin?
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