Water pump, running correctly??

Few weeks ago I had to replace the pressure switch on our water pump because it would run around 120PSI non-stop.

So I installed the new pressure switch (40/60). I set it to turn on at

40PSI and shut off at 60PSI.

Now, when someone is on the shower, washing machine filling up, toilet flushed, etc, the pump runs for 5 seconds till it reaches 60PSI, then it shuts off. Pressure quickly falls to below 40PSI and it comes back on for another 5 seconds, shuts off at 60PSI. Quickly goes down to below 40PSI and turns back on. Repeating this over and over and over.

I know I have set it to do this, so it may seem crazy to ask if this is the proper way this should work? It actually seems to be working perfectly, on at 40, off at 60. But the constant on/off/on/off/on/off/ on/off/on for several minutes straight just doesn't feel right to me.

Is it running right or do I have some sort of problem with the holding tank?

Thanks

Reply to
smk17
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I should say I'm not on city water, live out in the country with my own well.

Reply to
smk17

I sounds more like the check valve has failed, letting the pressure bleed off back into the well. Perhaps the high pressure killed it. The only other thing I can think of is a major leak, but you would notice that, even if it was under ground, it would always be wet in a spot.

Reply to
Eric in North TX

If it only does it when you are using water it isn't the check valve, it is the bladder tank. Push in the stem on tire valve on top and I bet water comes out. Drain the system down and blow air in it with the water valve open. You will be pushing out a lot of water, when air starts coming out, close the valve and bring it up to 40 This makes it better for a while, A new bladder tank is in your future.

Reply to
gfretwell

Sounds like your tank is waterlogged. In other words, there is not enough air space in your tank to hold pressure until a reasonable amount of water has been used. Since there is little air space, it takes a small amount of water use to drop the pressure from 60 lbs. to 40 lbs. Drain the tank and restart the system. that should restore the proper air/water balance. elgy

Reply to
elgee

you need more air and less water in your tank.

Reply to
Steve Barker

I agree that the problem is the air charge in the tank. Google "bladder type water tank" to find out how to check it for a ruptured bladder.

Hank

Reply to
Hustlin' Hank

Rapid cycling suggest the air chamber (bladder, Extrol, whatever) is out of air. He's right, about reinflating the air chamber.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. If a non- bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will destroy itself. The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Reply to
harry k

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get it fixed.

Reply to
smk17

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

Reply to
smk17

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. The bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi before you fixed the pressure switch. If you don't replace it, expect to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.

Reply to
greenpjs

For a while. sounds like it will be a continuing issue. If you're handy, you can probably inflate the tank every couple weeks with a shot of air, and delay the repair forever.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I nursed one along for a couple years like that but it was a regular chore.

Reply to
gfretwell

BTW I did do some looking. The bladder costs about 70% of the cost of the whole thing for the ones that you can replace (a very nasty job).

Reply to
gfretwell

Hmmm Your problem is more likely bladder tank, not the switch. Think logic.(IBM motto)

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Yep. Definitely not worth the swearing and struggle.

Harry K

Reply to
harry k

ide quoted text -

No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. It is fastened at the bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

Reply to
harry k

quoted text -

Who said it filled with air? I didn't. Per the original poster, the water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. That

*may* have ruptured the bladder.
Reply to
greenpjs

- Hide quoted text -

Just how could it? The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120 psi than it would be normally.

Harry K

Reply to
harry k

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