Water pump, running correctly??

I should say I'm not on city water, live out in the country with my own well.

I sounds more like the check valve has failed, letting the pressure bleed off back into the well. Perhaps the high pressure killed it. The only other thing I can think of is a major leak, but you would notice that, even if it was under ground, it would always be wet in a spot.

If it only does it when you are using water it isn't the check valve, it is the bladder tank. Push in the stem on tire valve on top and I bet water comes out. Drain the system down and blow air in it with the water valve open. You will be pushing out a lot of water, when air starts coming out, close the valve and bring it up to 40 This makes it better for a while, A new bladder tank is in your future.

Sounds like your tank is waterlogged. In other words, there is not enough air space in your tank to hold pressure until a reasonable amount of water has been used. Since there is little air space, it takes a small amount of water use to drop the pressure from 60 lbs. to 40 lbs. Drain the tank and restart the system. that should restore the proper air/water balance. elgy

you need more air and less water in your tank.

I agree that the problem is the air charge in the tank. Google "bladder type water tank" to find out how to check it for a ruptured bladder.

Hank

Rapid cycling suggest the air chamber (bladder, Extrol, whatever) is out of air. He's right, about reinflating the air chamber.

As others have said, you have waterlogged pressure tank. If a non- bladder type, just add air (usually 2 psi below cut-in), if a bladder type, the bladder is broken.

Your pump is 'short cycling' and if allowed to continue very long will destroy itself. The start cycle is the hardest 'wear' part of the pump operation.

You can run a 'broken bladder' tank by adding air but you will have to do so every month or so. New tanks are not a 'high dollar' item.

Harry K

Thanks all, I appreciate you taking the time. We'll see if I can get it fixed.

Update, went home, emptied the tank, filled it with 38 psi, adjusted the pressure switch a tad, we're back to normal, thanks everyone.

If you have a bladder type tank, you still need to replace it. The bladder probably ruptured when the pump was pumping up to 120 psi before you fixed the pressure switch. If you don't replace it, expect to empty and re-pressurize it every few months as the symptoms return.

For a while. sounds like it will be a continuing issue. If you're handy, you can probably inflate the tank every couple weeks with a shot of air, and delay the repair forever.

I nursed one along for a couple years like that but it was a regular chore.

BTW I did do some looking. The bladder costs about 70% of the cost of the whole thing for the ones that you can replace (a very nasty job).

Hmmm Your problem is more likely bladder tank, not the switch. Think logic.(IBM motto)

Yep. Definitely not worth the swearing and struggle.

Harry K

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No, it didn't rupture due to overinflation. It is fastened at the bottom and fills with water, not air.

Harry K

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Who said it filled with air? I didn't. Per the original poster, the water pressure had been 120 psi due to a faulky pressure switch. That

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Just how could it? The bladder would be even more 'collapsed' at 120 psi than it would be normally.

Harry K