Water heater install with SS connectors?

hows the galvanized? you must use die electric unions when connecting the hot water tank to galavanized pipe or the connection will fail fast.

I assumed the water heater will have galvanized nipples on top so everything would be compatible. Are they copper? If so, then I would need to use copper connectors with di-electric unions between the copper connectors and the galvanized house pipe. Is this correct?

Dielectric. But steel pipe to steel tank is not dielectric. Galvanization is irrelevant.

So I am better off using ss connectors and not introducing any copper to the system. As I recall the connectors have bronze nuts on each end but these shouldn't react much with my piping should they?

Ed you're fine with the SS flex pipes....and your water heater will fail internally LONG before there's any dielectric problem, even if you did connect copper to steel.

Stainless to non-stainless may present a problem.

Nuts and such that are not wet don't matter.

I would just use the dielectric unions. They don't cost much, and having a union fitting is a mechanical plus.

Even room moisture can cause troubles for dissimiliar metals. I have seen it occur.

A single shower Bosch electric tankless needs 120a, so think it through with gallon per minute and temp rise needed.

My house is about 40 years old and I've had a couple of problems with the hot water line. A joint failed just above the water heater several years ago and a pinhole leak developed in the vertical run in the wall behind the water heater. There is also a lot of mineral buildup in the pipes. I don't want to do anything likely to make things worse. I don't want to have to re-pipe the entire house.

This is strange. I was out of town last weekend and turned the water supply off. When I turned the water back on Sunday night, the leak had stopped. A bit of mineral deposit probably got in the hole so I realize I'm on borrowed time.