I am replacing my fan motor now and there is an extra wire that I am
not sure what to do with. It is a replacement motor from AO Smith that
is replacing a motor in a Rheem 90+ imperial furnace--it has an extra
brown wire with white stripes. According to the diagram the white wire
goes to line 1 and the brown/white wire goes to the capacitor along
with the other brown wire. On the original motor the white wire went to
the capacitor, along with the brown wire. The motor has this message on
it " if a capacitor post is used to make common line 1 connection use
same post that brown lead with white stripe is connected to" Where do I
put the brown/white stripe wire?
Also, there are 4 other wires coming out of the motor--2 orange and 2
yellow. right now the orange is connected to the yellow and a yellow is
connected to an orange--this is for CWSE if I want CCWSE than orange to
orange and yellow to yellow. What does this mean--the direction of the
Any help would be nice before the cold sets in tonight--thanks.
The two browns are capacitor wires, connect them to the capacitor. No other
wires go to the capacitor. The white is 120 volt common wire hook that to
the common spade on the control board. The other colors are the speed wires,
put one wire each on the appropriate terminal of the control board.
I have a protech UT control board and I am looking for the place to put
it--I have a set of neutral spades that it can go on according to the
schematics that came with the board (model 62-25341-81). would this be
the correct place to hook it into. thanks for the speedy reply
OHHHH...one of the EXPENSIVE boards...
Your best bet, since you are going to have two speeds needed, high for cool,
and low for heat, and there are two leads on the board for that, is not to
use the neutral leads on the board, but to simply tie the white lead to the
neutral in the J box...as you will have several off of it already more than
sorry guys--I do have some brains--everything is working ok now, fan is
blowing the way it should be, new motor is exactly what was called for
in replacing exisitng fan. Did a lot of research on that one first. I
just like to make sure I get it right the first time--I rather ask
questions if i am not 100 percent sure just to confirm myself. I am
tired of paying a repair man a lot of money for something simple and
especially since it is hard to trust anybody these days. Just had my
house remodeled and I wish I did it myself, the workers were
terrible--no sense of pride in their work. Anyway the pdf file from
FASCO put it in a clearer picture. Thanks for the info anyway.
So, you didnt pay more than $29 for that motor right?
And no...that motor ISNT exactly what is called for on that unit. That is a
replacement, just like an AOSmith or GE, or the like makes.
A factory replacement has the same wires, same wiring color, and connections
if any on it. they also dont make you fab new harnesses.
Reason I know that motor isnt the right one, rather, a direct factory motor
is that around these parts, Rheem/Ruud used to be king, back before the
current owner of the dealership here now ruined the rep they had, and Rheem
is high on our replacement list.
Its also high on our scrap list...but glad you got it working, glad you are
satisfied with it, and glad you didnt have any problems....other than not
knowing how to wire it, and smart enough to ask for help.
Now....not being a smartass, but did you check the heat rise after you did
all this to insure you didnt overcorrect for an aged motor and adjust the
unit as needed to correct for more airflow?
If you didnt, honestly, you havent completed the job.
And now they are learning why to do a job right, and safely costs about as
much as they pay for parts at a wholesaler, that wont sell wholesale to non
I always like the guys with heat pumps that put the wrong RPM motor back on
Well...I mean...there IS a wiring diagram on the side of the motor.
And most of those come packed with a sheet that shows how to hook up the
caps to the replacement motor.
Personally, I really prefer when possible to replace motors with the factory
replacement, simply due to the fact that you do not have to go matching HP,
RD, RPM, SF and frame size. You just go in, get the factory unit, and
I love what Yorks gone to with the new AOSmith motors....you pull two wires
up to the board, plug them in, and then, plug the other lead into the motor,
in the speed location you need. Real simple. Real neat, and no extra wires
to get pulled into the cage and short out.
Plus, as a stocking Source One dealer, makes inventory short and sweet.
Now..what if this guy had gotten a multi HP motor? LOL...a Rescue can drive
a good tech to pulling his hair out.
I had to replace the blower motor in my Carrier unit. The old motor
quit after working perfectly for 25 years. The old motor was a ball
bearing unit which would cost several hundred dollars for a direct
replacement. At least according to a check on internet sites that
sell Carrier units. I went to the local supply and bought a AOSmith
motor for 60 bucks and put it in. It works fine. It will be hard to
oil it later as there is a lot of sheet metal around it that has to be
removed. Probably why the original motor was ball bearing.
But will probably replace whole system before I need to replace motor
Yes, but the house was getting kind of cold! I would have had to go
to the city to get one and the sleeve bearing motor sure is a lot
quieter. So I may get a ball bearing the next time if this one
I think you were right originally...with good airflow over the motor
housing it is likely that this one will outlast the rest of the air
handler (even without oiling, assuming that there are oil point on the
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